Saturday, July 21, 2012

Camino Day 9 Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela

Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.

Today when I woke up the room was really warm, which was strange considering that we had cranked the ac since it was in the 30s.   Carleana cracked open a window and we hit some fresh air. We got ourselves organized and took our luggage down.  I couldn't get on the elevator since someone had been on who had been wearing some super strong cologne.  The stairs weren't much better because you could still smell it.  We has breakfast and went back to get our walking sticks and packs. A stop at the front desk to confirm which way to go and we were off.

It was a really cool morning and the fog was covering the tops if the hills just like that first morning in Sarria.   We walked along the highway for about 10 minutes then crossed to the left onto a paved road to the village of Vilamaoir.   It started to get steep and we climbed for about a half km.  Today, I think it was about getting there because we didn't stop too often and we made Monte de Gozo in good time.   This was the place where pilgrims during the middle ages would see Santiago for the first time.   Today we shared the road with hundreds if pilgrims.

At Monte de Gozo there is a huge monument that starts out as a four sided pyramid with bas-reliefs depicting scenes of pilgrims on the Camino.   It flattens at the top and there are two enormous metal shapes that reassemble the number 6 (one is red and one is white-- maybe referencing the knights Templar).  Between these two 6s there is a gigantic glass and metal cross.   You could actually see it from a fair distance away!

Nearby was a little church--very tiny and it looked to be very old.   It was decorated with fresh lilies and other flowers and had what looked like very old sculptures and carvings.   Outside the church was a guy making pilgrims using wire that looked really nice (Carleana bought one and he gave her another smaller one).

At this point, according to our walking notes were 1 km to the outskirts of Santiago.   We followed the road downhill and at the bottom was a closed off area with what looked like Celtic ruins or maybe Roman.   The signs led to a series of stairs and over a highway overpass and a train overpass--we were at the outskirts if Santiago (3 km from the cathedral).

As we walked along there was a statue of a Templar knight and in another park was a monument with bas-reliefs of famous historical figures who had made the Camino; at the bottom were written the names of the 20 people represented on the bas-reliefs.  I recognized Dante Alighieri, John Paul II, Isabel of Portugal and that's it.

We followed signs through city streets crammed with people--pilgrims everywhere and the people of Santiago.   At one point I stopped when I saw the spires of the cathedral.  It was exciting to realize that the end of the Camino was in sight.   We arrived at the side or back of the cathedral.   Finally we went in and I knew that I was in a European catholic church by all the decoration and the architecture.  The very stones and columns were the ones that I had seen in so many churches in Italy. There was a pilgrim's mass going on and they were announcing the places that they had come from. We listened for a while and then wandered around and finally out.

I went around a corner and found the gift shop. Then I went looking for Carleana and after getting directions headed for the pilgrim's office.   Fortunately we were able to find someone who spoke English and he was able to direct us to get our stamp and Compostela.   We asked him if he could direct us to our hotel and he produced a map to show us the way.

We left the pilgrim's office and made our way down to our hotel.  We kept getting distracted by the many souvenir shops so it took us a long time to make our way to the hotel.   Eventually we made it and got settled in--it was nice to know that we were going to have two days of not going anywhere.
I reorganized and repack my suitcase, washed a few things and relaxed for a bit before heading out again.  We left and headed back towards the Cathedrale.  On the way we saw a sign for Burger King and decided to go there.   It wasn't like at home.

Then we headed back into the historical centre and did a bit of shopping.  We found a few interesting places: The Chocolate Factory where they have chocolate of every kind and in every shape.  We decided to go back for a few treats on our way back to the hotel!   We went into a clothing store where the had a lot if the muslin tops and dresses I like.   Then as we were going by a bakery, the woman inside has us come in a try some Santiago cake and these cookies--both were really good. Expect some treats boys!!!

Over the course of the afternoon I got the rest of my souvenirs, a cool bag for groceries and a bag to replace my travel purse.   We stopped at the Santiago tourist information looking for help with find a carrier for our walking sticks--they gave us a lead which did not pan out.   We also stopped at the Galician information booth to find out where the bus station was, they also recommended that we take the scenic route so that we could see more of the coast.   Both places gave us maps so I now have quite a collection of mapas to take home.

We stopped for a drink and it was 6,50 euros (almost twice what we had paid the day before).  Then we made our way back to the hotel with a stop at the grocery store and the chocolate factory.  It was now extremely hot!!!

Did I mention that our hotel is directly across from the Galician parliament building!   We relaxed for a bit because we were going to see the fireworks at the Cathedral and I wanted to get caught up in my journal.   At around 9 pm we went downstairs and asked the receptionist if there was a good place for pizza nearby--turns out there was a place around the corner called La Trattoria.   We headed over and I had a pizza with asparagus, mushrooms , and artichoke hearts.  I loved it!!!!! The crust was a bit thicker than I like but it had very little sauce and a sprinkling of oregano.

We made our way to the cathedral and the roads were busy and the police presence was obvious.  The line up stretched for quite a way, but we got in and found a spot along the wall of the church and then we waited.  At about 11:15 they turned of the corner lights of the plaza and started some music playing and not long afterwards the lights and fireworks started.   All the while someone was narrating about the significance of the Camino and that each pilgrim came on a Camino for many reasons and it wasn't about doing penance but the satisfaction of having walked the Camino.

The fireworks were amazing and they went on for a long time.   I have never been so close to fireworks.   I kept having to crane up my neck to see the spectacle of lights and music.   We made it back to the hotel relatively quickly and without getting lost.  It was sometimes after 12:30--way late for both of us.

No comments:

Post a Comment