Thursday, July 19, 2012

Camino Day 4 Ventas de Naron to Palas de Rei

Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.

After a much better nights sleep, I woke up before me wake up call.  We got organized and went down to breakfast with the suitcases.   After breakfast we went back to get our packs and walking sticks.  Back downstairs to wait for the taxi.  Today the taxi ride was much smoother to the point that even in the front seat I was dozing off.  Once we arrived at Ventas I asked the tax driver about these concrete structures that we were seeing all over the place.  She explained that they were for storing corn.

We started walking.  It was quite cool and foggy.   As we walked along the paved road it was quiet and peaceful.   Looking out at the fog it seemed to look like frosting that had been drizzled on the hills.   While walking I went under some pine trees and felt a trickle of water drop on my head. Thinking it was starting to rain I looked up to the sky.  What had happened was that droplet of water had fallen off the pine needle.   When I looked back up I saw that all the pine needles had water droplets and in the early morning mist they sparkled like diamonds.
I continued to walk.  Carleana and I got separated but I figured that she was talking pictures.  The whole time I was walking it felt like I was alone in the world, it was a bit of a shock when another pilgrim passed me.  It was rather chilly and I kept walking glad that I had purchased that long sleeve shirt.  I knew that sooner or later Carleana would catch up.   It was a short while later that we did catch up with each other and we decided that we would stop for a health break at the next cafe that we found.

We stopped at a pensione in Ligonde and got our passports stamped.  I noticed that the person cleaning up was speaking in English so I asked if he was an expat or in a working holiday?   He introduced himself as Jim and he said that he was part of a church group who was over for a couple of weeks.   They had spent a week in the south of Spain with missionary from their church and were spend this week running the pilgrim's pension and then they were heading home to Boston.  It was really great stopping there because there were also a couple of German girls who were there for the day stamping passports.  That was the most rewarding part of this camino, talking with people from so many different places and starting to get a handle on the scope of what this walk means to so many people.  It was here that I started to realize the impact that the camino was going to have on me.
As we left the village, we followed the path that veered to the left and became a narrow dirt track with huge stone poking out from the ground; on either side were two stone fences that looked like they had been there forever.  It curved around and framed an absolutely lovely vista of rolling hills and green pastures. The stone steps seemed to be carved right out of the very earth and the hills were green and looked like a postcard.  In order to negotiate the path, you had to watch where you placed your feet because one false step and it would have been game over.
We were heading towards Brea and as the paved road veered towards a bridge we carried on.  Today was a good mix of up and down and variety of tracks and scenery.  As well there were lots of places to stop and rest.  We stopped at Portas for a health break and a snack.   The Ant Track Cafe was a very interesting place.   Inside there were pictures of all shapes and sizes of ant tracks and outside were giant mental sculptures of ants.   I had a cappuccino and some cookies that we had in our packs.
Off went again and the views were lovely but it was more uphill than down, and, naturally, I fell behind.  It was starting to get warmer and although I had taken off my white shirt I was debating putting on my hat.  Finally I compromised and put one of my wet face clothes under my hat and it helped to cool me down.  Between Brea and Palas de Rei, I took off my hat because there was more shade.   While I was walking I met another pilgrim and we chatted for a while in Spanish.  It turned out that she was from Peru.  By the way, my ease with Spanish is increasing and I am now able to order from the menu and have a basic conversation with more ease.

Almost before we realized we were at Palas de Rei and at our hotel.  It looked like the resort in Dirty Dancing.  It was a bit weird being on the ground floor but we had the windows open so we could get some air.   Anyway, anyone who knows me would know that this was a very uncomfortable place for me.

We did our usually prep stuff but there was no tub so I slathered my feet with arnica gel and took a couple of Advil.   After a few hours we went for lunch and then I went back to the room where I worked on my journal and my zentangle.   Afterwards we went into town (which was another two km trek--downhill into town and uphill back to our lodgings).   The town was all hills as well--needless to say we didn't stay very long.  We hung out on the patio of the cafe and worked on our blogs.  Then I headed back to our room to relax and worked on my zentangle and journal.
We met up for dinner and I had this soup which had spinach, potatoes, broth and chick peas; it was good but rather salty.   Then I had what was supposed to be turkey and it turned out to be pork with fries and for dessert I had creme caramel.   Then it was back to the room and some chilling and getting organized for the next day.

So today we walked11.447 km and it took us 245.28 minutes. It was Bryan Addams, the Ladies, Loverboy and other Canadian bands.

Love to my boys and I will text you daily.

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