Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
Carleana had to wake me up today because I forgot to set my alarm. We had stayed up looking at pictures and talking until 2 am. I got ready and made sure to pack a few odds and ends. We were both ready before 8 am. We went down for breakfast. After breakfast, we went back to the room to get our cases and do another sweep of the room.
We took our luggage downstairs and checked out. We were early so that we waited in the lobby for our taxi. Finally our taxi arrived. Our driver was a real cutie as well as being very funny. It was a good ride to the airport and we arrived about 25 later.
We had to walk quite a ways to the Air Canada counter. We got in line and waited. I went up to see if they were checking people in. I noticed that there was an agent at one of the desks so I went over with my walking stuck and asked what my options were for taking it home. He suggested that I get it wrapped and check it in. So I got Carleana's walking stick and had them wrapped for the trip home.
We got checked in and made our way to the gate. Armed with our boarding passes we went thought two security checkpoints and sat down for a drink to catch our breathe. Then we took a little walk around, sat for a bit and made our way to the boarding gate.
As we stood in line I had a great conversation with a young lady who was traveling home to Langley BC. She had spent the last 10 months in Spain on a Rotary exchange. We talked about what it entailed and how she found the experience. She was maybe 15 or 16 and she had spent almost a year on the other side of the world living with another family.
Someone behind me cleared their throat and I turned to find myself looking at Mr. Schwartz, the boys grade 7 teacher! I must of looked like a guppy because I couldn't believe my eyes. My brain was having trouble understanding what my eyes were seeing. But sure enough it was who I thought it was. We had a lovely chat about why each of was in Spain and then it was time to board.
We found our seats and got settled. I spent the first part of the flight catching up on my journal. The middle part watching movies: The Exotic Marigold Hotel, What to Expect When Your Expecting and The Hunger Games. Then I finished my my journal.
All was going well until about a hour from Toronto. Then we were diverted to Montreal because Pearson was closed because of very bad thunderstorms. We were in Montreal for a little over an hour. Then back in the air and 50 minutes or so later we landed in Toronto. Once we were on the ground it took another 2 hours before a gate opened and we were able to deplane.
Getting through customs was relatively quick and so was getting to the baggage claims. While waiting I saw Jason Schwartz again and we chatted while waiting for the luggage. Just before our luggage arrived, I went over to a counter nearby and asked where I would find our walking sticks. She instructed me to go to section B. I saw them right away: our walking sticks, safe and sound. Soon after our bags arrived and we left baggage claims and exited. Once we were out, we unpacked our walking sticks and walked out.
We exited and I found Cameron. I was really happy to see him. I was even more glad to be off the plane and finally home. It will be nice not to be living out of a suitcase. We stopped for a bite to eat on the way home. When we arrived home I was really happy to see Aaron and to be home.
I have had a wonderful experience that I am sure I will not fully appreciate for awhile. All the experiences I've had over the last 18 days will need time to percolate. It will take some time for me to process every experience that I have had.
Wednesday, July 25, 2012
Day 2 Madrid
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
This morning we slept in until 9 am again, it was lovely. We got ready and then went down for breakfast. We stopped at the front desk and asked them to get us a taxi for tomorrow for the airport. Then we headed down to the computer to confirm our flight but it was too early.
On the way out we stopped at the front desk to confirm directions to the Palacio Real. With oral directions and our map we were off. We headed to plaza San Domingo and down calle San Domingo until we got to the Teatro Real. We turned left and walked across plaza de Oriente with its lovely bronzes of one of the kings of Spain. We walked along the side of the palace to the entrance which is between the cathedral de la Almundena and the Palacio Real. We went in and paid 12€ for a self guided tour.
We walked along one side of Plaza de la Armeria and the first thing we was was the royal Farmacia. We walked in and it looked like the fairy godmother's potion shop in Shrek 2. There was even one section with glass cases and drawers that looked like the room where Shrek got the love potion! There were a number of pieces of equipment that we still use today.
Then we made our way to the entrance to the public rooms of the palace. Seriously, there was so much gold and ornamentation that it hurt the eyes. There was decoration on the walls, the ceilings, the chairs, the tables, the candlesticks, everywhere. And it was really hot--it wasn't just me because Carleana was commenting about the heat. As we wandered through the palace we saw the throne room, the waiting room, the antechamber, and the dining room (the table must seat at least 100 people). Unfortunately, the table wasn't set.
We went through the Royal Chapel, which was very ostentatious and ornate! Then to another little room with 3 violins (1706, 1709, and 1696) and a violoncello from 1700 which were all made by Antonio Stradivari. It was really cool to think that I was in a room with 4 instruments made by one of the most renown violin markers in the world.
We completed the tour in under the 45 minutes (the online review I read said that it would take 45 minutes) because it was so .... hot!!!!!! It wasn't any cooler outside! It was 37 degrees in the shade and at least there it was breezy. So we finished the tour with a walk along the other side of the plaza de la Armeria. There was a balcony where you could take some cool pictures of the city of Madrid. We left the palace and headed toward the cathedral and when we saw that we had to pay 6€ to get in; we bailed.
Then we walked back through the side of plaza de Oriente where I think there were statues of the various kings of Spain. It is a lovely green space with plenty of placed to sit and people watch. As I walked along there were Chinese people constantly asking if I wanted a massage and who weren't taking no for an answer until I just walked away!!!
We headed back to the hotel because we wanted to confirm our flight. We sat in the outdoor patio of the hotel and I had a cappuccino and water while Carleana had a ginger ale and mineral water. They brought out a few nibblies and I got a little chocolate with my cappuccino. While having our drinks we googled why the symbol of Madrid was a bear eating from a strawberry tree. It seems that both were plentiful when they founded the city of Madrid.
We finished our drinks and got on the computers and confirmed our flight. Then we went up to the room to have a health break and I dropped off my passport and grabbed a bit more cash! We stopped at the front desk to make sure of directions to plaza Mayor and how to get to the Reina Sofia from there. We managed to get to plaza Mayor relatively quickly but we had to take the long was to the Reina Sofia because it was the easiest.
So we walked into plaza Mayor and it was practically empty. But it was way cool because the buildings were really interesting, all of them had such lovely balconies. There was one building with painted murals in the outside and it was where they has one of the tourist information offices. The neat thing was that all the lampposts had locks on them that people must of left behind.
We made our way to Puerta del Sol and popped into a few shops along the way. We took carrera San Jeromino to plaza de Neptuno (by the way this is where the Westin hotel is that we had looked at but ruled out because it was too expensive) and then turned left and walked through Paseo del Prado because I figured it would be cooler. It was really nice walking among the trees and the statues and fountains. But at one point the path just stopped and we were enclosed by iron fences. So we climbed over them to cross the street. The iron fences were a little too high and we ended up walking a little bowlegged for a while.
Shortly afterwards we saw our second McDonald's of the day and we went in for lunch. It was after 3 pm and the place was packed!!!!!!! We ate our meal and then crossed the street outside of McDonalds. Before we knew it we were at the Reina Sofia. It's in a square without any shade but it was a nice building with two glass elevators. We paid our 6€ and went in.
Fortunately they had a floor map and we went right to the exhibit we wanted to see. I really enjoyed the cubists and surrealists works and saw more works by artists I had liked at the Thyssen. It was really neat to see more if Juan Gris, Joan Miro, Picasso, and Fernand Leger's works. I also found some new artists: Marius de Zayas, Albert Gleizes, Sonia Delauney, Julio Gonzales, and Roberto Matta that I really liked. The other thing I liked was the variety of art represented: lithographs, journals, sketchbooks, collages, videos, sketches, bronzes, marble scultptures and photographs. My favorite works were by cubists and surrealists. I saw Picasso's Guernica but in really didn't like it and it was black and white when I thought it was in colour. We went down to the gift shop and I got postcards of some of the pieces I liked. I also found a ceramic box with Don Quixote by Picasso which I absolutely adore.
We left the Reina Sofia having only see a bit because we were footsore and wanted to get our shopping finished. I still hadn't purchased my shawl. The shop where they had them was an authentic store which sold shawls, mantillas and what looked to be other flamenco paraphernalia. It was closed when we went by yesterday but I noticed that it would be open this afternoon. So we walked back toward Puerta del Sol. We went into the shop and I asked to see a red shawl. The one she brought out was absolutely gorgeous and the embroidery was all done by hand on silk. When I asked the price--it was 300€! I said that I was looking to spend no more than 100€ and she brought out some others and I picked a cream one with blue flowers for 90€. She wrapped it up for me and Carleana and I went off to finish the rest of our shopping.
We walked up to Gran Via and then toward plaza de Calloa. We stopped to get a frozen yogurt and headed to the room to rest and cool down. We got back after 6 pm and had been walking for almost 8 hours in the blustering heat, I may even have a slight sunburn even though I wore sunscreen! So between 6 and 9 I worked on my blog and made notes for my journal. I also finished my yogurt and soaked my poor feet. We decided that we would eat at the hotel.
So shortly before 9 we changed into dresses and headed down. We each had a glass of wine and shared the goose pate. Then I had fettuccine with Alfredo sauce which was fantastic and I finished with creme caramel and a cappuccino. Carleana toasted my wedding anniversary. Yes, I am like 4000 km away from my husband on our 18th wedding anniversary but we will celebrate once I get home. I came back to the room, packed, finished my blog and chilled until I could unwind enough to fall a asleep.
This has been an amazing experience. I have enjoyed so many new experiences and learned so much about myself. The icing in the cake was that I shared this with my very dear friend Carleana. Furthermore, none of this would have been possible if not for the support of my husband and my boys. I love you and can't wait to see you. Good night from Spain.
This morning we slept in until 9 am again, it was lovely. We got ready and then went down for breakfast. We stopped at the front desk and asked them to get us a taxi for tomorrow for the airport. Then we headed down to the computer to confirm our flight but it was too early.
On the way out we stopped at the front desk to confirm directions to the Palacio Real. With oral directions and our map we were off. We headed to plaza San Domingo and down calle San Domingo until we got to the Teatro Real. We turned left and walked across plaza de Oriente with its lovely bronzes of one of the kings of Spain. We walked along the side of the palace to the entrance which is between the cathedral de la Almundena and the Palacio Real. We went in and paid 12€ for a self guided tour.
We walked along one side of Plaza de la Armeria and the first thing we was was the royal Farmacia. We walked in and it looked like the fairy godmother's potion shop in Shrek 2. There was even one section with glass cases and drawers that looked like the room where Shrek got the love potion! There were a number of pieces of equipment that we still use today.
Then we made our way to the entrance to the public rooms of the palace. Seriously, there was so much gold and ornamentation that it hurt the eyes. There was decoration on the walls, the ceilings, the chairs, the tables, the candlesticks, everywhere. And it was really hot--it wasn't just me because Carleana was commenting about the heat. As we wandered through the palace we saw the throne room, the waiting room, the antechamber, and the dining room (the table must seat at least 100 people). Unfortunately, the table wasn't set.
We went through the Royal Chapel, which was very ostentatious and ornate! Then to another little room with 3 violins (1706, 1709, and 1696) and a violoncello from 1700 which were all made by Antonio Stradivari. It was really cool to think that I was in a room with 4 instruments made by one of the most renown violin markers in the world.
We completed the tour in under the 45 minutes (the online review I read said that it would take 45 minutes) because it was so .... hot!!!!!! It wasn't any cooler outside! It was 37 degrees in the shade and at least there it was breezy. So we finished the tour with a walk along the other side of the plaza de la Armeria. There was a balcony where you could take some cool pictures of the city of Madrid. We left the palace and headed toward the cathedral and when we saw that we had to pay 6€ to get in; we bailed.
Then we walked back through the side of plaza de Oriente where I think there were statues of the various kings of Spain. It is a lovely green space with plenty of placed to sit and people watch. As I walked along there were Chinese people constantly asking if I wanted a massage and who weren't taking no for an answer until I just walked away!!!
We headed back to the hotel because we wanted to confirm our flight. We sat in the outdoor patio of the hotel and I had a cappuccino and water while Carleana had a ginger ale and mineral water. They brought out a few nibblies and I got a little chocolate with my cappuccino. While having our drinks we googled why the symbol of Madrid was a bear eating from a strawberry tree. It seems that both were plentiful when they founded the city of Madrid.
We finished our drinks and got on the computers and confirmed our flight. Then we went up to the room to have a health break and I dropped off my passport and grabbed a bit more cash! We stopped at the front desk to make sure of directions to plaza Mayor and how to get to the Reina Sofia from there. We managed to get to plaza Mayor relatively quickly but we had to take the long was to the Reina Sofia because it was the easiest.
So we walked into plaza Mayor and it was practically empty. But it was way cool because the buildings were really interesting, all of them had such lovely balconies. There was one building with painted murals in the outside and it was where they has one of the tourist information offices. The neat thing was that all the lampposts had locks on them that people must of left behind.
We made our way to Puerta del Sol and popped into a few shops along the way. We took carrera San Jeromino to plaza de Neptuno (by the way this is where the Westin hotel is that we had looked at but ruled out because it was too expensive) and then turned left and walked through Paseo del Prado because I figured it would be cooler. It was really nice walking among the trees and the statues and fountains. But at one point the path just stopped and we were enclosed by iron fences. So we climbed over them to cross the street. The iron fences were a little too high and we ended up walking a little bowlegged for a while.
Shortly afterwards we saw our second McDonald's of the day and we went in for lunch. It was after 3 pm and the place was packed!!!!!!! We ate our meal and then crossed the street outside of McDonalds. Before we knew it we were at the Reina Sofia. It's in a square without any shade but it was a nice building with two glass elevators. We paid our 6€ and went in.
Fortunately they had a floor map and we went right to the exhibit we wanted to see. I really enjoyed the cubists and surrealists works and saw more works by artists I had liked at the Thyssen. It was really neat to see more if Juan Gris, Joan Miro, Picasso, and Fernand Leger's works. I also found some new artists: Marius de Zayas, Albert Gleizes, Sonia Delauney, Julio Gonzales, and Roberto Matta that I really liked. The other thing I liked was the variety of art represented: lithographs, journals, sketchbooks, collages, videos, sketches, bronzes, marble scultptures and photographs. My favorite works were by cubists and surrealists. I saw Picasso's Guernica but in really didn't like it and it was black and white when I thought it was in colour. We went down to the gift shop and I got postcards of some of the pieces I liked. I also found a ceramic box with Don Quixote by Picasso which I absolutely adore.
We left the Reina Sofia having only see a bit because we were footsore and wanted to get our shopping finished. I still hadn't purchased my shawl. The shop where they had them was an authentic store which sold shawls, mantillas and what looked to be other flamenco paraphernalia. It was closed when we went by yesterday but I noticed that it would be open this afternoon. So we walked back toward Puerta del Sol. We went into the shop and I asked to see a red shawl. The one she brought out was absolutely gorgeous and the embroidery was all done by hand on silk. When I asked the price--it was 300€! I said that I was looking to spend no more than 100€ and she brought out some others and I picked a cream one with blue flowers for 90€. She wrapped it up for me and Carleana and I went off to finish the rest of our shopping.
We walked up to Gran Via and then toward plaza de Calloa. We stopped to get a frozen yogurt and headed to the room to rest and cool down. We got back after 6 pm and had been walking for almost 8 hours in the blustering heat, I may even have a slight sunburn even though I wore sunscreen! So between 6 and 9 I worked on my blog and made notes for my journal. I also finished my yogurt and soaked my poor feet. We decided that we would eat at the hotel.
So shortly before 9 we changed into dresses and headed down. We each had a glass of wine and shared the goose pate. Then I had fettuccine with Alfredo sauce which was fantastic and I finished with creme caramel and a cappuccino. Carleana toasted my wedding anniversary. Yes, I am like 4000 km away from my husband on our 18th wedding anniversary but we will celebrate once I get home. I came back to the room, packed, finished my blog and chilled until I could unwind enough to fall a asleep.
This has been an amazing experience. I have enjoyed so many new experiences and learned so much about myself. The icing in the cake was that I shared this with my very dear friend Carleana. Furthermore, none of this would have been possible if not for the support of my husband and my boys. I love you and can't wait to see you. Good night from Spain.
Day 1 madrid
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
So today I got a blister on my baby toe from the cute little shoes I bought because my flip flops were hurting my feet!
We both enjoyed sleeping in until 9 am. I was awake before 9 because it seems my body was not going to let me rest. I got showered and put on a dress for the first time this trip. We went down to breakfast and it was lovely! There was a huge variety of food from fresh fruit to eggs to hams to breads to pastries. I had some fruit, the Spanish tortilla, egg on toast and some coffee.
After breakfast we headed out. We walked up to plaza de Calloa and down calle Montera because Carleana had seen a purse yesterday and she wanted to go back and pick it up. When we reached the store it wasn't open yet; we decided we would come back that way because there was also a souvenir shop that we wanted to get some things from.
We continued until we reached Puerto del Sol and crossed the street turning left onto carrera San Jeromimo. On the way down the street we heard sounds of protestors and notice a fairly substantial police presence but by the time we get to the end of the street it has moved on and the barricades are down.
We arrived at plaza de Neptuno which is a roundabout with an enormous fountain in the centre of which is statue of Neptune riding a sea creature with water shooting into the air. We cross to the left toward the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum. We get our tickets and head up to the top floor and start our explorations.
The top floor is dedicated to art from the 17 century with a heavily Italian presence to early Impressionism with a heavy French presence. I really enjoyed the early Impressionism and there were also a couple of other pieces that really got me thinking. One was a painting by Bramantino where the Christ looks like a Wraith from Stargate Atlantis but it was painted in 1490! Another was a set of two pictures that were painted by Jan van Eyck (I had seen his name on a monument in Santiago of famous people who had completed the Camino). And lastly, there was a painting by Domenico Ghirlandaio who I think trained Michelangelo.
We went down to the next floor and I was in heaven-- it was the impressionist and Avant-Gardes era. There were so many pieces that took my breath away. I was more than happy to sit on the bench and drink in the beautiful works of art. There were many pieces which made me think and others that just spoke to my soul. I really enjoyed the works of Kurt Schwitter, Juan Gris, Fernand Leger, Frantisek Kupka, Joan Miri and Paul Klee. That's not to say that I turned up my nose at the Picassos, Monets, Degas' and other notable impressionists. It's that I just discovered some new modern artists that I liked.
We took a tour of the gift shop on the bottom floor and I picked up some postcards of the art pieces I liked. Then we left the Thyssen and walked around the roundabout to the Prado. The whole area is really neat because there is a green section called the Paseo del Prado which is like a miniature park. We weren't far from the big park in the centre of Madrid called El Parco del Buen Retiro or from the botanical gardens.
When we got to the Prado we got our tickets, a map and made our way to the restaurant because we were hungry. I had a quiche with leeks and a Greek salad with a diet coke. Then we went over to the gift shop because I was looking for postcards and a small pad of paper and a pen to make notes with; besides we're were right there.
Then we toured the museum and within a short time I was bored. Firstly, there were few places to sit and secondly, there was a lot of religious art and portraits. I was looking forward to seeing the Bosch but after that I just wanted to get out. I think I might have had enough of the crowds. The Prado does have a lot of sculptures which I really liked. There were a number of sculptures dating back to ancient times. Just as you entered there were statues of the 8 Muses dating back to ancient Greece; they were owned by the queen of Sweden who had them restored by that I mean having the heads reattached mainly.
We walked back to Puerta del Sol and on the way passed by a shawl shop with mantillas and other flamenco accessories. Unfortunately, it was closed but we are going to the Reina Sofia museum tomorrow and have to pass near Puerta del Sol. We walked up calle Montera and Carleana got her purse and I picked up the rest of my gifts. We continued up the street, wandering in and out of stores that caught our eye. We stopped for ice cream and a rest before continuing on. We found ourselves on Gran Via and headed in the direction of the hotel. Once again we popped in and out of stores looking at things but not buying anything.
When we arrived at Plaza de Calloa they were broadcasting the basketball game between Spain and China. The square was quite full and the police were visible as crowd control. It was kind of neat to see all these people standing or sitting around the perimeter watching the game. We continued down the street to our hotel.
When we arrived in our room we were greeted by sweet air conditioning and I just lay on the bed for a bit enjoy being cool. It was bliss to be off my feet and laying down after walking for almost 8 hours on marble and cement. When I took my shoes off I discovered the blister on my baby toe; so I guess I'm back to flip flops for at least part if the day and I better dig out my band aids!
So we spent some time chilling and at about 9 went to get some dinner. We thought we would try the all you can eat buffet around the corner. It was alright. Then we took a stroll and ended up on a street we hadn't been on before but we managed to find our way back to Plaza de Calloa and they were showing the soccer game between Spain and Honduras. It was even more crowded than this afternoon. There was a bigger police presence as well. We made our way over to Starbucks and got drinks then walked back to the hotel.
I had a soak in the tub because my legs and feet were sore. I finished my blog and went to bed. Sleeping in tomorrow until at least 9 am. Plan is to go to the royal palace, the Reina Sofia, the parco del buen retiro and a bit more shopping before packing everything up for home.
So today I got a blister on my baby toe from the cute little shoes I bought because my flip flops were hurting my feet!
We both enjoyed sleeping in until 9 am. I was awake before 9 because it seems my body was not going to let me rest. I got showered and put on a dress for the first time this trip. We went down to breakfast and it was lovely! There was a huge variety of food from fresh fruit to eggs to hams to breads to pastries. I had some fruit, the Spanish tortilla, egg on toast and some coffee.
After breakfast we headed out. We walked up to plaza de Calloa and down calle Montera because Carleana had seen a purse yesterday and she wanted to go back and pick it up. When we reached the store it wasn't open yet; we decided we would come back that way because there was also a souvenir shop that we wanted to get some things from.
We continued until we reached Puerto del Sol and crossed the street turning left onto carrera San Jeromimo. On the way down the street we heard sounds of protestors and notice a fairly substantial police presence but by the time we get to the end of the street it has moved on and the barricades are down.
We arrived at plaza de Neptuno which is a roundabout with an enormous fountain in the centre of which is statue of Neptune riding a sea creature with water shooting into the air. We cross to the left toward the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum. We get our tickets and head up to the top floor and start our explorations.
The top floor is dedicated to art from the 17 century with a heavily Italian presence to early Impressionism with a heavy French presence. I really enjoyed the early Impressionism and there were also a couple of other pieces that really got me thinking. One was a painting by Bramantino where the Christ looks like a Wraith from Stargate Atlantis but it was painted in 1490! Another was a set of two pictures that were painted by Jan van Eyck (I had seen his name on a monument in Santiago of famous people who had completed the Camino). And lastly, there was a painting by Domenico Ghirlandaio who I think trained Michelangelo.
We went down to the next floor and I was in heaven-- it was the impressionist and Avant-Gardes era. There were so many pieces that took my breath away. I was more than happy to sit on the bench and drink in the beautiful works of art. There were many pieces which made me think and others that just spoke to my soul. I really enjoyed the works of Kurt Schwitter, Juan Gris, Fernand Leger, Frantisek Kupka, Joan Miri and Paul Klee. That's not to say that I turned up my nose at the Picassos, Monets, Degas' and other notable impressionists. It's that I just discovered some new modern artists that I liked.
We took a tour of the gift shop on the bottom floor and I picked up some postcards of the art pieces I liked. Then we left the Thyssen and walked around the roundabout to the Prado. The whole area is really neat because there is a green section called the Paseo del Prado which is like a miniature park. We weren't far from the big park in the centre of Madrid called El Parco del Buen Retiro or from the botanical gardens.
When we got to the Prado we got our tickets, a map and made our way to the restaurant because we were hungry. I had a quiche with leeks and a Greek salad with a diet coke. Then we went over to the gift shop because I was looking for postcards and a small pad of paper and a pen to make notes with; besides we're were right there.
Then we toured the museum and within a short time I was bored. Firstly, there were few places to sit and secondly, there was a lot of religious art and portraits. I was looking forward to seeing the Bosch but after that I just wanted to get out. I think I might have had enough of the crowds. The Prado does have a lot of sculptures which I really liked. There were a number of sculptures dating back to ancient times. Just as you entered there were statues of the 8 Muses dating back to ancient Greece; they were owned by the queen of Sweden who had them restored by that I mean having the heads reattached mainly.
We walked back to Puerta del Sol and on the way passed by a shawl shop with mantillas and other flamenco accessories. Unfortunately, it was closed but we are going to the Reina Sofia museum tomorrow and have to pass near Puerta del Sol. We walked up calle Montera and Carleana got her purse and I picked up the rest of my gifts. We continued up the street, wandering in and out of stores that caught our eye. We stopped for ice cream and a rest before continuing on. We found ourselves on Gran Via and headed in the direction of the hotel. Once again we popped in and out of stores looking at things but not buying anything.
When we arrived at Plaza de Calloa they were broadcasting the basketball game between Spain and China. The square was quite full and the police were visible as crowd control. It was kind of neat to see all these people standing or sitting around the perimeter watching the game. We continued down the street to our hotel.
When we arrived in our room we were greeted by sweet air conditioning and I just lay on the bed for a bit enjoy being cool. It was bliss to be off my feet and laying down after walking for almost 8 hours on marble and cement. When I took my shoes off I discovered the blister on my baby toe; so I guess I'm back to flip flops for at least part if the day and I better dig out my band aids!
So we spent some time chilling and at about 9 went to get some dinner. We thought we would try the all you can eat buffet around the corner. It was alright. Then we took a stroll and ended up on a street we hadn't been on before but we managed to find our way back to Plaza de Calloa and they were showing the soccer game between Spain and Honduras. It was even more crowded than this afternoon. There was a bigger police presence as well. We made our way over to Starbucks and got drinks then walked back to the hotel.
I had a soak in the tub because my legs and feet were sore. I finished my blog and went to bed. Sleeping in tomorrow until at least 9 am. Plan is to go to the royal palace, the Reina Sofia, the parco del buen retiro and a bit more shopping before packing everything up for home.
Santiago to Madrid by train
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
Today was another early day as we were up by 7 am. I had been awake on and off for about half an hour but hadn't made it out of bed. We got all our stuff together, and went down for breakfast. When we finished we asked the desk clerk to call us a cab and he made some comment about being able to walk there and I replied that we didn't want to lug our very heavy bags! Really, I didn't ask your permission and I also didn't ask you to pay for it!!
The taxi arrived and he drove us to the station, when we were getting out he made some comment to his friends about the fact we had took a taxi. Then they all started laughing which ticked me off. Seriously people need to worry about themselves and not get into other people's business. I am well aware that we had a 5 minute walk but we were both lugging heavy suitcases and backpacks as well as our walking sticks! And to get from the hotel to the train station with all our stuff would have taken us 30 minutes and we could have been injured. My Camino was over and I wasn't ready to start a new one just yet.
We arrived way early and waited in the cold. It was so cold that I had to put my cardigan and rain jacket on because I was freezing. Then they announced the track and we took the elevator down and walked under the tracks. There was a ticket agent checking tickets just before the stairs to go back upstairs, so we showed our tickets and took the elevator up to platform 4. Within a few minutes the train arrived and we were fortunately standing right near where we needed to get in.
But there was nobody in sight to give us a hand and it took me a few minutes to position myself to get my bags and myself on board. Then I had to get my bag up in the overhead compartment and it took both of us to get it up there. Finally I got myself settled and Carleana's bag could not go in the overhead compartment so it was on the floor between the two of us.
It was a long hot ride and there was no benefit to being in first class because it's not as if we got anything special. Our seats were roomier. I spent the time catching up in my journal, napping, listening to music and we played cards for a while; Carleana kept beating me at crazy 8s. Then she fell asleep and I dozed off.
We finally arrived in Madrid on time and we made our way to the entrance. I went over to information and found out where to find the taxis. The taxi driver that pulled up had a big dent on the passenger side which didn't inspire a lot of confidence. It also took a few minutes to get him to realize where we wanted to go and he had to gps it. I had serious doubts about whether we were going to get to our hotel. Then he tells me that he won't be able to get us right to our hotel and we will have to walk. Anyway just as he had stopped and was asking whether we wanted him to drive us to Gran Via, I looked up and saw our hotel.
We got out and Carleana hears is someone screaming Preciados. This guy tries to take her bag and she was flipping out. I explained that he was taking our bags to our hotel as we settled with the taxi. We checked in and went up to our room, then a bit later the bellboy brought our bags up to the room and even put then on the luggage rack and opened the safe and showed us how to use it.
Then we took an hour or so to get settled and unpacked for the next couple of days. I went through the booklet and map we got at the front desk. Then we sat down and came up with a game plan for the next two days. We are going to the area around the El Retiro park and see which two museums we will go to tomorrow and then the other two the next day. We are also going to finish up our shopping.
We decided to go for a walk and we headed towards Plaza del Callao and then down Calle Carmen towards Puerta del Sol. Along the way we did some shopping and I found a pair of comfy flats. I also found a shopping bag with my name on it, and I got a few ideas of things for my boys. We wandered around for a couple of hours because when we got back to the hotel it was after 7:30.
We had dinner at the hotel. I had the goose pate which was really good. Then I had a salad with tuna and boiled eggs. I ordered a glass of dry white wine with my meal and a bottle of mineral water. Then for dessert I had the creme caramel and it came with peach and strawberry slices, whipping cream and walnuts. They also brought a baileys. All and all I had a pretty good meal for 26€.
We went for a walk up to Plaza del Callao because we had seen a Starbucks and thought we would have some of the comforts of home. We also went into the Cortes Ingles to get a few essentials at the super mercado. Then we walked back to our hotel and got settled in for the night.
I wrote up a few notes for my journal and then worked on this blog. I did my daily zentangle and went to bed knowing that I could sleep in to at least 9 am.
Today was another early day as we were up by 7 am. I had been awake on and off for about half an hour but hadn't made it out of bed. We got all our stuff together, and went down for breakfast. When we finished we asked the desk clerk to call us a cab and he made some comment about being able to walk there and I replied that we didn't want to lug our very heavy bags! Really, I didn't ask your permission and I also didn't ask you to pay for it!!
The taxi arrived and he drove us to the station, when we were getting out he made some comment to his friends about the fact we had took a taxi. Then they all started laughing which ticked me off. Seriously people need to worry about themselves and not get into other people's business. I am well aware that we had a 5 minute walk but we were both lugging heavy suitcases and backpacks as well as our walking sticks! And to get from the hotel to the train station with all our stuff would have taken us 30 minutes and we could have been injured. My Camino was over and I wasn't ready to start a new one just yet.
We arrived way early and waited in the cold. It was so cold that I had to put my cardigan and rain jacket on because I was freezing. Then they announced the track and we took the elevator down and walked under the tracks. There was a ticket agent checking tickets just before the stairs to go back upstairs, so we showed our tickets and took the elevator up to platform 4. Within a few minutes the train arrived and we were fortunately standing right near where we needed to get in.
But there was nobody in sight to give us a hand and it took me a few minutes to position myself to get my bags and myself on board. Then I had to get my bag up in the overhead compartment and it took both of us to get it up there. Finally I got myself settled and Carleana's bag could not go in the overhead compartment so it was on the floor between the two of us.
It was a long hot ride and there was no benefit to being in first class because it's not as if we got anything special. Our seats were roomier. I spent the time catching up in my journal, napping, listening to music and we played cards for a while; Carleana kept beating me at crazy 8s. Then she fell asleep and I dozed off.
We finally arrived in Madrid on time and we made our way to the entrance. I went over to information and found out where to find the taxis. The taxi driver that pulled up had a big dent on the passenger side which didn't inspire a lot of confidence. It also took a few minutes to get him to realize where we wanted to go and he had to gps it. I had serious doubts about whether we were going to get to our hotel. Then he tells me that he won't be able to get us right to our hotel and we will have to walk. Anyway just as he had stopped and was asking whether we wanted him to drive us to Gran Via, I looked up and saw our hotel.
We got out and Carleana hears is someone screaming Preciados. This guy tries to take her bag and she was flipping out. I explained that he was taking our bags to our hotel as we settled with the taxi. We checked in and went up to our room, then a bit later the bellboy brought our bags up to the room and even put then on the luggage rack and opened the safe and showed us how to use it.
Then we took an hour or so to get settled and unpacked for the next couple of days. I went through the booklet and map we got at the front desk. Then we sat down and came up with a game plan for the next two days. We are going to the area around the El Retiro park and see which two museums we will go to tomorrow and then the other two the next day. We are also going to finish up our shopping.
We decided to go for a walk and we headed towards Plaza del Callao and then down Calle Carmen towards Puerta del Sol. Along the way we did some shopping and I found a pair of comfy flats. I also found a shopping bag with my name on it, and I got a few ideas of things for my boys. We wandered around for a couple of hours because when we got back to the hotel it was after 7:30.
We had dinner at the hotel. I had the goose pate which was really good. Then I had a salad with tuna and boiled eggs. I ordered a glass of dry white wine with my meal and a bottle of mineral water. Then for dessert I had the creme caramel and it came with peach and strawberry slices, whipping cream and walnuts. They also brought a baileys. All and all I had a pretty good meal for 26€.
We went for a walk up to Plaza del Callao because we had seen a Starbucks and thought we would have some of the comforts of home. We also went into the Cortes Ingles to get a few essentials at the super mercado. Then we walked back to our hotel and got settled in for the night.
I wrote up a few notes for my journal and then worked on this blog. I did my daily zentangle and went to bed knowing that I could sleep in to at least 9 am.
Saturday, July 21, 2012
Back to Santiago
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
So I wrote up a bunch of stuff on the bus and I somehow lost it! So here I go again. We were up at 7 am to get to the bus early. We went down and breakfast wasn't until 8 am but the owner was kind enough to get us some breakfast. He was squeezing fresh orange juice (zuma de naranje) and he brought us a nice big glass, then he brought us nice warm croissant and cafe con leche. We had our breakfast looking out at the fog.
We asked him to call a taxi but he wasn't having any luck so he drove us down to the village. I asked him how long he had been running the hotel and he said that he had been doing it for 10 years.
We arrived in the village as a bus to Santiago was loading do we joined the line up and got on. We has seats across from each other and when the people behind us got off we moved into their seat. The route was backwards from yesterday through winding roads and up and down steep hills. We weren't sitting in the top half of the bus so it wasn't as much of a core work out.
It was also a bus that stopped at every village along the way either to drop off or pick up. Like yesterday it was really foggy and only once and a while did you see a village as you passed by. Then just before Santiago a whole load of people go off. They may have been heading to the market stalls that were being set up along the main street or it may have been market day or a festival; I couldn't tell.
The ride was cloudy until about 34 km before Santiago (I know that because I saw a road sign) it started to clear up and the sun broke through. It was raining a little as we approached Santiago but that was between the clouds.
We arrived at the bus station and went out to get a taxi and it was spitting just a little as the sun shone. We arrived at the hotel and checked in. We went up to the room and the receptionist brought up our suitcases and walking sticks. We have a much larger bathroom this time and we are on the 3rd floor (4th for north Americans). We are still facing the parliament building but we are in 301. The first thing I did on entering the room was open the windows as widely as possible and the breeze raced in to start cooling thing off.
We got organized and went up to the historic centre. We walked up one side stopping in the various souvenir shops, and taking pictures. We toured the first level of the pilgrim's museum and then we left. I just wanted to be outside in the breeze not inside stuff buildings. Then we walked back down the other side of the street still wandering in and out of souvenir shops. We took a side trip to the post office and later had to double back because Carleana was looking for some specific stuff and we hasn't found it anywhere. But she remembered a souvenir shop we has gone into the first afternoon and that's where we went. Then we got our torta do Santiago.
We stopped at the grocery for water and some sandwich supplies for dinner because we didn't want to over eat. What can I say we have simple tastes! I also wanted to have water for tonight and for the train. My husband will tell you that it's an obsession with me--I have to have water in the hotel rooms, in my bag, whenever I travel and especially at night when I'm traveling . I am sure that I have driven Carleana nuts with my water obsession.
We walked back to the hotel, dropped off our groceries (actually emptied the mini bar and loaded our stuff in). Then we headed to the one restaurant we have been having good luck with. I had a chicken breast with spaghetti arrabbiati (a hot tomato sauce sometimes made with spicy sausage but here with the ever prevalent jamon--ham). For dessert I has ice cream (helato) with a scoop each of nata (cream), dulce de leche (caramel) and fresas (strawberry) and to finish I had a cappuccino.
When we got back to the room, Carleana had a nap and I took apart my suitcase, backpack and purse to organize for the train trip and for Madrid. I hope that this is the last time and that I will only need to put in the stuff I pick up in Madrid. I know that I will be able to use my backpack and orange bag for the plane.
Once I got organized I worked on my blog which is almost done. Then I will work on my journal and today's zentangle. Later I'm going to soak in the tub and have something to eat. I hope to be in bed between 9 and 10 pm so that I can be up for 7 am and we can get to the train station for between 8 and 8:30 am.
It has been a good day and it seems sad that this part of the journey is over. I left Canada 14 days ago having never been away from husband and boys for more that 24 hours and I have survived. I miss them terribly but we having been texting regularly so I I know that they have been reading this and supporting my journey.
The next few days will fly by and soon I will be back home to the real world and real responsibilities. Writing this blog was aided by the playlist I put together for the 18 km day entitled Camino songs.
If you have been reading my blog drop me a line to let me know what you think. Signing off from Santiago and Galicia for the last time, ciao!
So I wrote up a bunch of stuff on the bus and I somehow lost it! So here I go again. We were up at 7 am to get to the bus early. We went down and breakfast wasn't until 8 am but the owner was kind enough to get us some breakfast. He was squeezing fresh orange juice (zuma de naranje) and he brought us a nice big glass, then he brought us nice warm croissant and cafe con leche. We had our breakfast looking out at the fog.
We asked him to call a taxi but he wasn't having any luck so he drove us down to the village. I asked him how long he had been running the hotel and he said that he had been doing it for 10 years.
We arrived in the village as a bus to Santiago was loading do we joined the line up and got on. We has seats across from each other and when the people behind us got off we moved into their seat. The route was backwards from yesterday through winding roads and up and down steep hills. We weren't sitting in the top half of the bus so it wasn't as much of a core work out.
It was also a bus that stopped at every village along the way either to drop off or pick up. Like yesterday it was really foggy and only once and a while did you see a village as you passed by. Then just before Santiago a whole load of people go off. They may have been heading to the market stalls that were being set up along the main street or it may have been market day or a festival; I couldn't tell.
The ride was cloudy until about 34 km before Santiago (I know that because I saw a road sign) it started to clear up and the sun broke through. It was raining a little as we approached Santiago but that was between the clouds.
We arrived at the bus station and went out to get a taxi and it was spitting just a little as the sun shone. We arrived at the hotel and checked in. We went up to the room and the receptionist brought up our suitcases and walking sticks. We have a much larger bathroom this time and we are on the 3rd floor (4th for north Americans). We are still facing the parliament building but we are in 301. The first thing I did on entering the room was open the windows as widely as possible and the breeze raced in to start cooling thing off.
We got organized and went up to the historic centre. We walked up one side stopping in the various souvenir shops, and taking pictures. We toured the first level of the pilgrim's museum and then we left. I just wanted to be outside in the breeze not inside stuff buildings. Then we walked back down the other side of the street still wandering in and out of souvenir shops. We took a side trip to the post office and later had to double back because Carleana was looking for some specific stuff and we hasn't found it anywhere. But she remembered a souvenir shop we has gone into the first afternoon and that's where we went. Then we got our torta do Santiago.
We stopped at the grocery for water and some sandwich supplies for dinner because we didn't want to over eat. What can I say we have simple tastes! I also wanted to have water for tonight and for the train. My husband will tell you that it's an obsession with me--I have to have water in the hotel rooms, in my bag, whenever I travel and especially at night when I'm traveling . I am sure that I have driven Carleana nuts with my water obsession.
We walked back to the hotel, dropped off our groceries (actually emptied the mini bar and loaded our stuff in). Then we headed to the one restaurant we have been having good luck with. I had a chicken breast with spaghetti arrabbiati (a hot tomato sauce sometimes made with spicy sausage but here with the ever prevalent jamon--ham). For dessert I has ice cream (helato) with a scoop each of nata (cream), dulce de leche (caramel) and fresas (strawberry) and to finish I had a cappuccino.
When we got back to the room, Carleana had a nap and I took apart my suitcase, backpack and purse to organize for the train trip and for Madrid. I hope that this is the last time and that I will only need to put in the stuff I pick up in Madrid. I know that I will be able to use my backpack and orange bag for the plane.
Once I got organized I worked on my blog which is almost done. Then I will work on my journal and today's zentangle. Later I'm going to soak in the tub and have something to eat. I hope to be in bed between 9 and 10 pm so that I can be up for 7 am and we can get to the train station for between 8 and 8:30 am.
It has been a good day and it seems sad that this part of the journey is over. I left Canada 14 days ago having never been away from husband and boys for more that 24 hours and I have survived. I miss them terribly but we having been texting regularly so I I know that they have been reading this and supporting my journey.
The next few days will fly by and soon I will be back home to the real world and real responsibilities. Writing this blog was aided by the playlist I put together for the 18 km day entitled Camino songs.
If you have been reading my blog drop me a line to let me know what you think. Signing off from Santiago and Galicia for the last time, ciao!
Finisterra
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
So we were up early to get to the bus station. We arranged to leave our suitcases at the hotel since we were going back there anyway. We just took some overnight stuff and our purses. We arrived and got our tickets then got directions for where to catch the bus.
Carleana was first in line and that was a good thing because she was able to get us good seats. I was a bit further back and was getting squashed as I boarded the bus. Sitting beside us was a father and son from Holland, the mom was sitting behind us. They had walked from Pamplona and were going to Fisterra and walking back to Santiago.
The bus ride was like many if our taxi rides--it was a wonder we didn't end up over the side of a cliff or cars and the sides if buildings weren't being mangled. It was a workout for your core and your arms and legs as it whipped around corners. When you could actually look out the window there were many lively sights many winking in and out through the fog. I took a shirt video to share when I get home.
As the bus passed by sleepy fishing villages the ocean seemed to be kissing the very cliffs below. Many times I saw fishermen out in boats casting their nets or using poles; they were usually standing up in their boats. A couple of places along the way I saw stores displaying beach paraphernalia--balls, tubes, boogie boards, etc. It reminded me of the many beachside towns I saw along the Adriatic coast of Italy or the shops at Turkey Point.
The rocks that were on the opposite side of the ocean vistas reminded me if the Canadian shield in northern Ontario. It was a very similar landscape: with the pine trees and similar scrub. It made me think of all those drives up to Sudbury when I was in university. There were several places where huge. container ships were loading wood for transport elsewhere. There were enormous cranes and other pieces if equipment for working with these ships.
We got to Fisterra and looked around and bought a couple of souvenirs. Then we had an ice cream and decided to come to the hotel because this was what we wanted to see: the lighthouse and the cape. We discovered that our hotel was where the lighthouse was as well as the cape. We took a taxi up through the fog, catching tantalizing glimpses of the water and the cliffs. We arrived in the fog barely able to make out the steps that would lead to our hotel room. The breeze was chilly and felt so good after the heat and humidity if the last several days.
Our room wasn't ready and I left my bag while we looked around. We walked over to the lighthouse (a mere 10 meters away) and looked around. Then we walked back down the quay and stopped to take pictures of each other at the 0.0 km marker. Wandering further down there were vendors set up selling all sorts of souvenirs. There is a cross overlooking the one side and while taking a picture an Italian family showed up so I offered to take a picture of everyone, and we struck up a conversation. So I now have used all of my languages this trip.
We got some churrors with sugar and made our way to our room. We are on the 1st floor (2nd floor in Canada) and there are 3 windows 1 facing the light house, 1 facing the mountain and I facing the sea. We opened all the windows and there is a lively and fresh breeze. Our room has a name, it's called sotovento (under the winds)--how amazing is that!!!!!
We got settled then got a bite to eat but it was starting to get colder and the fog was getting heavier. So we went inside and I sat on the bed and did some blogging. After a while I moved to a little sitting area on this floor where Carleana was working on her blog. It wasn't as comfortable so I moved back to our room. When I noticed that the fog was lifting, I got Carleana and we rushed out to take pictures. The views were even more amazing and my pictures are so awe inspiring. I took so many.
I divided my time between walking outside and catching up on blogging. Before I knew it it was 9 pm so we thought we should get downstairs for dinner. We sat by a window looking out at the mountain and you could hear the rain falling outside. It was foggy in the distance.
My meal was delicious. It started with these croquettes and seafood mixture. Then I had razor clams and pork loin with fresh crispy potatoes and pedron peppers. I had a glass of white wine and some mineral water sin gas. For dessert I had torta de manzana and I finished the meal with a cafe con leche. The whole meal was mouthwatering, perfectly seasoned and totally worth 20€.
When we came upstairs the lighthouse was on and it was shining its light into our room. After midnight it was so quite that all you could hear was the wind blowing across the cape and the waves crashing down below the cliff. I wish I had the words to describe the peace and tranquility I feel just by sitting on the bed and listening to the sounds of the wind and the waves! It is almost as if they are having a conversation and I am privileged enough to be able to listen. I feel calm and rested. I breathe the air that smells fresh and clean with a ting of salt and as it makes it's way into my body it revitalizes my soul.
Good night and sleep well, I love you.
So we were up early to get to the bus station. We arranged to leave our suitcases at the hotel since we were going back there anyway. We just took some overnight stuff and our purses. We arrived and got our tickets then got directions for where to catch the bus.
Carleana was first in line and that was a good thing because she was able to get us good seats. I was a bit further back and was getting squashed as I boarded the bus. Sitting beside us was a father and son from Holland, the mom was sitting behind us. They had walked from Pamplona and were going to Fisterra and walking back to Santiago.
The bus ride was like many if our taxi rides--it was a wonder we didn't end up over the side of a cliff or cars and the sides if buildings weren't being mangled. It was a workout for your core and your arms and legs as it whipped around corners. When you could actually look out the window there were many lively sights many winking in and out through the fog. I took a shirt video to share when I get home.
As the bus passed by sleepy fishing villages the ocean seemed to be kissing the very cliffs below. Many times I saw fishermen out in boats casting their nets or using poles; they were usually standing up in their boats. A couple of places along the way I saw stores displaying beach paraphernalia--balls, tubes, boogie boards, etc. It reminded me of the many beachside towns I saw along the Adriatic coast of Italy or the shops at Turkey Point.
The rocks that were on the opposite side of the ocean vistas reminded me if the Canadian shield in northern Ontario. It was a very similar landscape: with the pine trees and similar scrub. It made me think of all those drives up to Sudbury when I was in university. There were several places where huge. container ships were loading wood for transport elsewhere. There were enormous cranes and other pieces if equipment for working with these ships.
We got to Fisterra and looked around and bought a couple of souvenirs. Then we had an ice cream and decided to come to the hotel because this was what we wanted to see: the lighthouse and the cape. We discovered that our hotel was where the lighthouse was as well as the cape. We took a taxi up through the fog, catching tantalizing glimpses of the water and the cliffs. We arrived in the fog barely able to make out the steps that would lead to our hotel room. The breeze was chilly and felt so good after the heat and humidity if the last several days.
Our room wasn't ready and I left my bag while we looked around. We walked over to the lighthouse (a mere 10 meters away) and looked around. Then we walked back down the quay and stopped to take pictures of each other at the 0.0 km marker. Wandering further down there were vendors set up selling all sorts of souvenirs. There is a cross overlooking the one side and while taking a picture an Italian family showed up so I offered to take a picture of everyone, and we struck up a conversation. So I now have used all of my languages this trip.
We got some churrors with sugar and made our way to our room. We are on the 1st floor (2nd floor in Canada) and there are 3 windows 1 facing the light house, 1 facing the mountain and I facing the sea. We opened all the windows and there is a lively and fresh breeze. Our room has a name, it's called sotovento (under the winds)--how amazing is that!!!!!
We got settled then got a bite to eat but it was starting to get colder and the fog was getting heavier. So we went inside and I sat on the bed and did some blogging. After a while I moved to a little sitting area on this floor where Carleana was working on her blog. It wasn't as comfortable so I moved back to our room. When I noticed that the fog was lifting, I got Carleana and we rushed out to take pictures. The views were even more amazing and my pictures are so awe inspiring. I took so many.
I divided my time between walking outside and catching up on blogging. Before I knew it it was 9 pm so we thought we should get downstairs for dinner. We sat by a window looking out at the mountain and you could hear the rain falling outside. It was foggy in the distance.
My meal was delicious. It started with these croquettes and seafood mixture. Then I had razor clams and pork loin with fresh crispy potatoes and pedron peppers. I had a glass of white wine and some mineral water sin gas. For dessert I had torta de manzana and I finished the meal with a cafe con leche. The whole meal was mouthwatering, perfectly seasoned and totally worth 20€.
When we came upstairs the lighthouse was on and it was shining its light into our room. After midnight it was so quite that all you could hear was the wind blowing across the cape and the waves crashing down below the cliff. I wish I had the words to describe the peace and tranquility I feel just by sitting on the bed and listening to the sounds of the wind and the waves! It is almost as if they are having a conversation and I am privileged enough to be able to listen. I feel calm and rested. I breathe the air that smells fresh and clean with a ting of salt and as it makes it's way into my body it revitalizes my soul.
Good night and sleep well, I love you.
Camino Day 10 Down day in Santiago
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
7:30 am I was up with the first massive migraine of the trip--it was one of those that required medication, alka seltzer and an ice pack (in this case a cold compress). Then I opened the windows to let in more cool air and fell back asleep. My alarm woke me up at 9 am (did I mention I learned how to use my iPhone as an alarm clock- what a wonderful gift my husband gave me).
We got ourselves ready, went down to breakfast and then off to church for what we hoped was the pilgrim's mass. We got there at about 10:30 and there was a line up already to the top step of the cathedral. There was already a mass going in and we waited because the police were only allowing people in as people left. It was already blazing hot. We waited in line for 2 hours before we were allowed in, fortunately we did have some distractions.
First, in the line behind us was a group of women who had met on the Camino and two of the women had taken a vow of silence for the last stage if the Camino and until the left the church. They were all very nice and we chatted on and off while we waited. As we waited, they used the massive incense burner and I hit a bit of video of them swinging it back and forth. It was truly amazing to watch. The history behind this is that when pilgrims arrived they usually hadn't bathed for the whole of the pilgrimage so it was rather ripe, they made the butafico (giant incense burner) to deal with the odors.
Then just before we went in, I said something like I wish I was taller so that I could see and the guy in front if me moved and started taking in English. Turns out that he and his wife were from Wales and his wife had completed the Portuguese Camino being 7 months pregnant.
We got in for the mass and it was hot. We did manage to find a seat and for that I was extremely grateful. I was having problems following the mass because it was in Spanish and I haven't been to mass in a really long time. I was also very hot and my legs and feet were throbbing from my flip flops. We left our seats shortly before the Eucharist and wandered around taking pictures of the inside if the church.
We headed back to our hotel at around 2:30 and stopped at the trattoria for lunch. We split an order of garlic bread with cheese and I had the ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach. It was very good, however, the wine I had was a bit on the sweet side and I didn't enjoy it. I finished with a really good cappuccino.
We went back to the hotel to drop off some things and then walked down to the train station. It is literally a 2 minute walk. We got the train tickets for the 28th--first class. Then we walked back to the hotel trying to figure out whether or not to walk our suitcases over or take a taxi--here's the problem: there is no ramp for us to walk down and there are about 40 steps from the street to the train station furthermore we didn't see any other option?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
From there we went to the bus station by taxi because it was on the other side if town and it was extremely hot. We get there and they don't sell tickets until the day of so we wasted taxi fare for nothing. We head back to the room because all the walking has finally caught up with me.
I spend the afternoon blogging, texting, and working in my zentangles. Later in the afternoon it starts thundering and lightning and then for about a hour it rains and things cool down considerably. I'm still full from lunch and have a couple of granola bars for dinner. Then I pack up for Fisterra and turn in early since we were going to get to the bus station early.
7:30 am I was up with the first massive migraine of the trip--it was one of those that required medication, alka seltzer and an ice pack (in this case a cold compress). Then I opened the windows to let in more cool air and fell back asleep. My alarm woke me up at 9 am (did I mention I learned how to use my iPhone as an alarm clock- what a wonderful gift my husband gave me).
We got ourselves ready, went down to breakfast and then off to church for what we hoped was the pilgrim's mass. We got there at about 10:30 and there was a line up already to the top step of the cathedral. There was already a mass going in and we waited because the police were only allowing people in as people left. It was already blazing hot. We waited in line for 2 hours before we were allowed in, fortunately we did have some distractions.
First, in the line behind us was a group of women who had met on the Camino and two of the women had taken a vow of silence for the last stage if the Camino and until the left the church. They were all very nice and we chatted on and off while we waited. As we waited, they used the massive incense burner and I hit a bit of video of them swinging it back and forth. It was truly amazing to watch. The history behind this is that when pilgrims arrived they usually hadn't bathed for the whole of the pilgrimage so it was rather ripe, they made the butafico (giant incense burner) to deal with the odors.
Then just before we went in, I said something like I wish I was taller so that I could see and the guy in front if me moved and started taking in English. Turns out that he and his wife were from Wales and his wife had completed the Portuguese Camino being 7 months pregnant.
We got in for the mass and it was hot. We did manage to find a seat and for that I was extremely grateful. I was having problems following the mass because it was in Spanish and I haven't been to mass in a really long time. I was also very hot and my legs and feet were throbbing from my flip flops. We left our seats shortly before the Eucharist and wandered around taking pictures of the inside if the church.
We headed back to our hotel at around 2:30 and stopped at the trattoria for lunch. We split an order of garlic bread with cheese and I had the ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach. It was very good, however, the wine I had was a bit on the sweet side and I didn't enjoy it. I finished with a really good cappuccino.
We went back to the hotel to drop off some things and then walked down to the train station. It is literally a 2 minute walk. We got the train tickets for the 28th--first class. Then we walked back to the hotel trying to figure out whether or not to walk our suitcases over or take a taxi--here's the problem: there is no ramp for us to walk down and there are about 40 steps from the street to the train station furthermore we didn't see any other option?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
From there we went to the bus station by taxi because it was on the other side if town and it was extremely hot. We get there and they don't sell tickets until the day of so we wasted taxi fare for nothing. We head back to the room because all the walking has finally caught up with me.
I spend the afternoon blogging, texting, and working in my zentangles. Later in the afternoon it starts thundering and lightning and then for about a hour it rains and things cool down considerably. I'm still full from lunch and have a couple of granola bars for dinner. Then I pack up for Fisterra and turn in early since we were going to get to the bus station early.
Camino Day 9 Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
Today when I woke up the room was really warm, which was strange considering that we had cranked the ac since it was in the 30s. Carleana cracked open a window and we hit some fresh air. We got ourselves organized and took our luggage down. I couldn't get on the elevator since someone had been on who had been wearing some super strong cologne. The stairs weren't much better because you could still smell it. We has breakfast and went back to get our walking sticks and packs. A stop at the front desk to confirm which way to go and we were off.
It was a really cool morning and the fog was covering the tops if the hills just like that first morning in Sarria. We walked along the highway for about 10 minutes then crossed to the left onto a paved road to the village of Vilamaoir. It started to get steep and we climbed for about a half km. Today, I think it was about getting there because we didn't stop too often and we made Monte de Gozo in good time. This was the place where pilgrims during the middle ages would see Santiago for the first time. Today we shared the road with hundreds if pilgrims.
At Monte de Gozo there is a huge monument that starts out as a four sided pyramid with bas-reliefs depicting scenes of pilgrims on the Camino. It flattens at the top and there are two enormous metal shapes that reassemble the number 6 (one is red and one is white-- maybe referencing the knights Templar). Between these two 6s there is a gigantic glass and metal cross. You could actually see it from a fair distance away!
Nearby was a little church--very tiny and it looked to be very old. It was decorated with fresh lilies and other flowers and had what looked like very old sculptures and carvings. Outside the church was a guy making pilgrims using wire that looked really nice (Carleana bought one and he gave her another smaller one).
At this point, according to our walking notes were 1 km to the outskirts of Santiago. We followed the road downhill and at the bottom was a closed off area with what looked like Celtic ruins or maybe Roman. The signs led to a series of stairs and over a highway overpass and a train overpass--we were at the outskirts if Santiago (3 km from the cathedral).
As we walked along there was a statue of a Templar knight and in another park was a monument with bas-reliefs of famous historical figures who had made the Camino; at the bottom were written the names of the 20 people represented on the bas-reliefs. I recognized Dante Alighieri, John Paul II, Isabel of Portugal and that's it.
We followed signs through city streets crammed with people--pilgrims everywhere and the people of Santiago. At one point I stopped when I saw the spires of the cathedral. It was exciting to realize that the end of the Camino was in sight. We arrived at the side or back of the cathedral. Finally we went in and I knew that I was in a European catholic church by all the decoration and the architecture. The very stones and columns were the ones that I had seen in so many churches in Italy. There was a pilgrim's mass going on and they were announcing the places that they had come from. We listened for a while and then wandered around and finally out.
I went around a corner and found the gift shop. Then I went looking for Carleana and after getting directions headed for the pilgrim's office. Fortunately we were able to find someone who spoke English and he was able to direct us to get our stamp and Compostela. We asked him if he could direct us to our hotel and he produced a map to show us the way.
We left the pilgrim's office and made our way down to our hotel. We kept getting distracted by the many souvenir shops so it took us a long time to make our way to the hotel. Eventually we made it and got settled in--it was nice to know that we were going to have two days of not going anywhere.
I reorganized and repack my suitcase, washed a few things and relaxed for a bit before heading out again. We left and headed back towards the Cathedrale. On the way we saw a sign for Burger King and decided to go there. It wasn't like at home.
Then we headed back into the historical centre and did a bit of shopping. We found a few interesting places: The Chocolate Factory where they have chocolate of every kind and in every shape. We decided to go back for a few treats on our way back to the hotel! We went into a clothing store where the had a lot if the muslin tops and dresses I like. Then as we were going by a bakery, the woman inside has us come in a try some Santiago cake and these cookies--both were really good. Expect some treats boys!!!
Over the course of the afternoon I got the rest of my souvenirs, a cool bag for groceries and a bag to replace my travel purse. We stopped at the Santiago tourist information looking for help with find a carrier for our walking sticks--they gave us a lead which did not pan out. We also stopped at the Galician information booth to find out where the bus station was, they also recommended that we take the scenic route so that we could see more of the coast. Both places gave us maps so I now have quite a collection of mapas to take home.
We stopped for a drink and it was 6,50 euros (almost twice what we had paid the day before). Then we made our way back to the hotel with a stop at the grocery store and the chocolate factory. It was now extremely hot!!!
Did I mention that our hotel is directly across from the Galician parliament building! We relaxed for a bit because we were going to see the fireworks at the Cathedral and I wanted to get caught up in my journal. At around 9 pm we went downstairs and asked the receptionist if there was a good place for pizza nearby--turns out there was a place around the corner called La Trattoria. We headed over and I had a pizza with asparagus, mushrooms , and artichoke hearts. I loved it!!!!! The crust was a bit thicker than I like but it had very little sauce and a sprinkling of oregano.
We made our way to the cathedral and the roads were busy and the police presence was obvious. The line up stretched for quite a way, but we got in and found a spot along the wall of the church and then we waited. At about 11:15 they turned of the corner lights of the plaza and started some music playing and not long afterwards the lights and fireworks started. All the while someone was narrating about the significance of the Camino and that each pilgrim came on a Camino for many reasons and it wasn't about doing penance but the satisfaction of having walked the Camino.
The fireworks were amazing and they went on for a long time. I have never been so close to fireworks. I kept having to crane up my neck to see the spectacle of lights and music. We made it back to the hotel relatively quickly and without getting lost. It was sometimes after 12:30--way late for both of us.
Today when I woke up the room was really warm, which was strange considering that we had cranked the ac since it was in the 30s. Carleana cracked open a window and we hit some fresh air. We got ourselves organized and took our luggage down. I couldn't get on the elevator since someone had been on who had been wearing some super strong cologne. The stairs weren't much better because you could still smell it. We has breakfast and went back to get our walking sticks and packs. A stop at the front desk to confirm which way to go and we were off.
It was a really cool morning and the fog was covering the tops if the hills just like that first morning in Sarria. We walked along the highway for about 10 minutes then crossed to the left onto a paved road to the village of Vilamaoir. It started to get steep and we climbed for about a half km. Today, I think it was about getting there because we didn't stop too often and we made Monte de Gozo in good time. This was the place where pilgrims during the middle ages would see Santiago for the first time. Today we shared the road with hundreds if pilgrims.
At Monte de Gozo there is a huge monument that starts out as a four sided pyramid with bas-reliefs depicting scenes of pilgrims on the Camino. It flattens at the top and there are two enormous metal shapes that reassemble the number 6 (one is red and one is white-- maybe referencing the knights Templar). Between these two 6s there is a gigantic glass and metal cross. You could actually see it from a fair distance away!
Nearby was a little church--very tiny and it looked to be very old. It was decorated with fresh lilies and other flowers and had what looked like very old sculptures and carvings. Outside the church was a guy making pilgrims using wire that looked really nice (Carleana bought one and he gave her another smaller one).
At this point, according to our walking notes were 1 km to the outskirts of Santiago. We followed the road downhill and at the bottom was a closed off area with what looked like Celtic ruins or maybe Roman. The signs led to a series of stairs and over a highway overpass and a train overpass--we were at the outskirts if Santiago (3 km from the cathedral).
As we walked along there was a statue of a Templar knight and in another park was a monument with bas-reliefs of famous historical figures who had made the Camino; at the bottom were written the names of the 20 people represented on the bas-reliefs. I recognized Dante Alighieri, John Paul II, Isabel of Portugal and that's it.
We followed signs through city streets crammed with people--pilgrims everywhere and the people of Santiago. At one point I stopped when I saw the spires of the cathedral. It was exciting to realize that the end of the Camino was in sight. We arrived at the side or back of the cathedral. Finally we went in and I knew that I was in a European catholic church by all the decoration and the architecture. The very stones and columns were the ones that I had seen in so many churches in Italy. There was a pilgrim's mass going on and they were announcing the places that they had come from. We listened for a while and then wandered around and finally out.
I went around a corner and found the gift shop. Then I went looking for Carleana and after getting directions headed for the pilgrim's office. Fortunately we were able to find someone who spoke English and he was able to direct us to get our stamp and Compostela. We asked him if he could direct us to our hotel and he produced a map to show us the way.
We left the pilgrim's office and made our way down to our hotel. We kept getting distracted by the many souvenir shops so it took us a long time to make our way to the hotel. Eventually we made it and got settled in--it was nice to know that we were going to have two days of not going anywhere.
I reorganized and repack my suitcase, washed a few things and relaxed for a bit before heading out again. We left and headed back towards the Cathedrale. On the way we saw a sign for Burger King and decided to go there. It wasn't like at home.
Then we headed back into the historical centre and did a bit of shopping. We found a few interesting places: The Chocolate Factory where they have chocolate of every kind and in every shape. We decided to go back for a few treats on our way back to the hotel! We went into a clothing store where the had a lot if the muslin tops and dresses I like. Then as we were going by a bakery, the woman inside has us come in a try some Santiago cake and these cookies--both were really good. Expect some treats boys!!!
Over the course of the afternoon I got the rest of my souvenirs, a cool bag for groceries and a bag to replace my travel purse. We stopped at the Santiago tourist information looking for help with find a carrier for our walking sticks--they gave us a lead which did not pan out. We also stopped at the Galician information booth to find out where the bus station was, they also recommended that we take the scenic route so that we could see more of the coast. Both places gave us maps so I now have quite a collection of mapas to take home.
We stopped for a drink and it was 6,50 euros (almost twice what we had paid the day before). Then we made our way back to the hotel with a stop at the grocery store and the chocolate factory. It was now extremely hot!!!
Did I mention that our hotel is directly across from the Galician parliament building! We relaxed for a bit because we were going to see the fireworks at the Cathedral and I wanted to get caught up in my journal. At around 9 pm we went downstairs and asked the receptionist if there was a good place for pizza nearby--turns out there was a place around the corner called La Trattoria. We headed over and I had a pizza with asparagus, mushrooms , and artichoke hearts. I loved it!!!!! The crust was a bit thicker than I like but it had very little sauce and a sprinkling of oregano.
We made our way to the cathedral and the roads were busy and the police presence was obvious. The line up stretched for quite a way, but we got in and found a spot along the wall of the church and then we waited. At about 11:15 they turned of the corner lights of the plaza and started some music playing and not long afterwards the lights and fireworks started. All the while someone was narrating about the significance of the Camino and that each pilgrim came on a Camino for many reasons and it wasn't about doing penance but the satisfaction of having walked the Camino.
The fireworks were amazing and they went on for a long time. I have never been so close to fireworks. I kept having to crane up my neck to see the spectacle of lights and music. We made it back to the hotel relatively quickly and without getting lost. It was sometimes after 12:30--way late for both of us.
Camino Day 8 Rua to Lavacolla
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
Today was our second last day of walking and it became a day for reflection and celebration. I spent a lot of time thinking and a lot of time walking with Carleana and talking. Last night I was out cold by about 9 pm and slept like a log.
We did our usual stuff and had a very inadequate breakfast before we headed out. We made sure to confirm which way to go before we left the hotel. We walked along the main road of the town until we found the forest track where it was nice and cool. There were not a lot of pilgrims walking so it was quiet and the woods were cool and peaceful.
Today the walk was much more relaxing, maybe because I knew that I would be walking half the distance that we had walked yesterday. When we reached Aminal we stopped for a health break and a supplement to breakfast. I had a cafe con leche and a slice of torta de Santiago (I will be bringing some home). While we were having our second breakfast (here I was feeling like a hobbit), we met up with our Irish gentleman, the German couple and we met a brother and sister who had walked the whole Camino. They started June 16 in St Jean.
We took up our walk again and the path became really steep for a while but it was a lovely wooded area that was shady and cool. In case you haven't realized it--the weather was really warm with temperatures in the high 20s and low 30s with some humidity, so it was really nice to walk in the shade and to have a breeze (which was a constant companion and a great pick me up).
As we walked along the forest path we realize that the path has gone up all around us and that you are walking in an open tunnel with giant rocks that are covered in moss and vines, above are the roots of trees and further up are the trees themselves. It almost seems that earth has embraced you in its arms and is providing you with safe passage. So I was walking a path with the sides going up 10 to 15 feet on either side. This was by no means the first time it happened, in fact there were several sections where you seemed to be cocooned from the outside world by the earth.
Walking the track between Aminal and Lavacolla I had to step off of it to take a picture if an intriguing view. There was a patch without any vegetation at all and in the distance green meadows and hills. It may well be part of the construction that we passed yesterday. It was just so out of place from the surrounding area.
At the next cafe we stopped for ice cream and some water. Today I had a really yummy ice cream which was vanilla covered with white chocolate and almonds. It made me think of the chocolate we get at the duty free in Sarnia and I had to think of my boys. The ice cream was cool and refreshing.
Still heading toward Lavacolla, we passed by a stone grotto where there was a small waterfall about 3 feet high running over some rocks. There were people who had stopped to have a picnic (we thought to wash their feet ). There is the tradition of the Camino that pilgrims would stop at Lavacolla to wash their hands and necks before continuing into Santiago. A little further on we came to a stone carving with a huge shell, walking stick, gourd and the word Santiago. We asked a couple if guys who were standing there if they would take our picture. Not long after we found the turn for our hotel (4 star tonight).
We had a quiet room with air conditioning and a nice big bathroom. We got settled, cleaned up and then went for lunch. We went into the dining room and it was much fancier then we have been used to. For starters, I could barely make out the menu. We got English ones and started to look it over. Then the head waiter took our drink order and I has a glass of white wine and a mineral water. We could not decide so we asked him to bring us something typical. And then I ordered an Italian salad. Our meal started with this huge chunk of bread and some of the soft cheese of region. When our surprise came it was deep fried anchovies with the heads on and these tiny green peppers that had also been fried. I enjoyed both. Then my salad came and I really enjoyed that along with a second glass if wine. By the time I finished I was feeling no pain--in fact I wasn't feeling neither my sore feet nor my sore back. For dessert I had a baked Alaska. It was the best meal I had eaten so far on this trip.
Carleana went for a nap and I went out to an area under the trees where they had set up some tables to work on my journal and zentangles. Then I went back to the room for a while and at around 8:30 we had dinner. I had the creme vichyssoise, the chef's salad and strawberry ice cream-- it was all good!
Then I gave my feet a good soak and a rub and went to bed.
Today was our second last day of walking and it became a day for reflection and celebration. I spent a lot of time thinking and a lot of time walking with Carleana and talking. Last night I was out cold by about 9 pm and slept like a log.
We did our usual stuff and had a very inadequate breakfast before we headed out. We made sure to confirm which way to go before we left the hotel. We walked along the main road of the town until we found the forest track where it was nice and cool. There were not a lot of pilgrims walking so it was quiet and the woods were cool and peaceful.
Today the walk was much more relaxing, maybe because I knew that I would be walking half the distance that we had walked yesterday. When we reached Aminal we stopped for a health break and a supplement to breakfast. I had a cafe con leche and a slice of torta de Santiago (I will be bringing some home). While we were having our second breakfast (here I was feeling like a hobbit), we met up with our Irish gentleman, the German couple and we met a brother and sister who had walked the whole Camino. They started June 16 in St Jean.
We took up our walk again and the path became really steep for a while but it was a lovely wooded area that was shady and cool. In case you haven't realized it--the weather was really warm with temperatures in the high 20s and low 30s with some humidity, so it was really nice to walk in the shade and to have a breeze (which was a constant companion and a great pick me up).
As we walked along the forest path we realize that the path has gone up all around us and that you are walking in an open tunnel with giant rocks that are covered in moss and vines, above are the roots of trees and further up are the trees themselves. It almost seems that earth has embraced you in its arms and is providing you with safe passage. So I was walking a path with the sides going up 10 to 15 feet on either side. This was by no means the first time it happened, in fact there were several sections where you seemed to be cocooned from the outside world by the earth.
Walking the track between Aminal and Lavacolla I had to step off of it to take a picture if an intriguing view. There was a patch without any vegetation at all and in the distance green meadows and hills. It may well be part of the construction that we passed yesterday. It was just so out of place from the surrounding area.
At the next cafe we stopped for ice cream and some water. Today I had a really yummy ice cream which was vanilla covered with white chocolate and almonds. It made me think of the chocolate we get at the duty free in Sarnia and I had to think of my boys. The ice cream was cool and refreshing.
Still heading toward Lavacolla, we passed by a stone grotto where there was a small waterfall about 3 feet high running over some rocks. There were people who had stopped to have a picnic (we thought to wash their feet ). There is the tradition of the Camino that pilgrims would stop at Lavacolla to wash their hands and necks before continuing into Santiago. A little further on we came to a stone carving with a huge shell, walking stick, gourd and the word Santiago. We asked a couple if guys who were standing there if they would take our picture. Not long after we found the turn for our hotel (4 star tonight).
We had a quiet room with air conditioning and a nice big bathroom. We got settled, cleaned up and then went for lunch. We went into the dining room and it was much fancier then we have been used to. For starters, I could barely make out the menu. We got English ones and started to look it over. Then the head waiter took our drink order and I has a glass of white wine and a mineral water. We could not decide so we asked him to bring us something typical. And then I ordered an Italian salad. Our meal started with this huge chunk of bread and some of the soft cheese of region. When our surprise came it was deep fried anchovies with the heads on and these tiny green peppers that had also been fried. I enjoyed both. Then my salad came and I really enjoyed that along with a second glass if wine. By the time I finished I was feeling no pain--in fact I wasn't feeling neither my sore feet nor my sore back. For dessert I had a baked Alaska. It was the best meal I had eaten so far on this trip.
Carleana went for a nap and I went out to an area under the trees where they had set up some tables to work on my journal and zentangles. Then I went back to the room for a while and at around 8:30 we had dinner. I had the creme vichyssoise, the chef's salad and strawberry ice cream-- it was all good!
Then I gave my feet a good soak and a rub and went to bed.
Friday, July 20, 2012
Camino Day 2 Morgade to Portomarin
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
So today was day 2 of our Camino and the day did not start too auspiciously because I had the start of a migraine as well as bit of an upset tummy. I had a shower and took something for my head and we headed down for breakfast bringing our luggage. I asked the receptionist to call a taxi, but he said that it would be there in 2 minutes so we might want to wait. We went in and had breakfast; afterwards we went back to the room for a health break and to get our packs and walking sticks. We went back to the lobby and the receptionist called the taxi. Surprise it was actually there in about 2 minutes.
We got in and fastened our seat belts. Thank goodness!?!?!?!?!! The driver was some kind of kamikaze even though he looked to be in his 60s. He drove fast and whipped around the corners like he was racing in the Monaco Grand Pr ix. He took out a flock of birds, narrowly missed both dogs and pilgrims, We finally arrived in Morgade and it was a beautiful, crisp clear and cool morning.
I got my iphone out and set up the pedometer and got my music queued up. As I walked the kinks slowly were being worked out and I was enjoying the peace and quiet. We were alone on the path for a long time and it was all farmland with winding dirt paths. Now the farms are really small--in that they would be more like what a large back yard would look like. In some patches there was corn or wheat and in others there were cows. The little hamlets that dotted the paths were made up of may 4 to 5 houses with outbuildings for cars and farm equipment. You had to keep your eyes on the path because it was often littered with cow droppings (not only the paths but as you walked through "town" too).
Today I spent a lot of time walking by myself, either because I was ahead of Carleana (very rarely) or I was behind her. I just walked along, listening to my playlist with one headphone and the sounds of nature with my free ear (there were birds singing everywhere and the wind was rustling the leaves of the trees). Whereas yesterday it was mostly uphill and bubbling brooks, today it was a lot of downhill with steep declines over rock outcroppings (it reminded me a lot of northern Ontario). There was a lot less habitation and more wooded areas and farmland. There were a lot of steep declines where you had to walk carefully so as not to fall or slip, some of it was over rocks. I was extremely grateful for having my walking stick.
I found walking today much more peaceful. Maybe because there wasn´t as much traffic with pilgrims. I had a good day walking. During the earlier part of the walk there was an old man taking his cows to pasture. I was actually walking with Carleana and I said to her that I it was like watching a tradition that hadn´t changed in hundreds of years. When I thought all the cows had passed, I started walking and another cow came along followed by a little old lady who was probably the old man's wife. The cow was right beside me; if I had held out my hand I would have been able to touch a cow.
The whole time I was walking through that oak forest it all seemed surreal; there was an otherworld feeling as I thought about how those same trees and rocks had been there for hundreds, if not thousands of years and what tales they could tell about what they had seen. There was something that was both primal and progressive; a kind of ying and yang. It was almost a shock to have to leave the cool peacefulness of the woods and start walking along the gravel road.
The rest of the day's walk went well, but at one point while walking downhill I couldn´t help but wonder when I would have to pay for it by going uphill again. Eventually we reached the bridge heading into Portomarin. This bridge had been the subject of some discussion because Carleana is afraid of bridges. We stopped and took pictures before crossing and Carleana videoed herself as she crossed. She managed it with grace. Then we continued onward looking for our hotel. Eventually we found the Church of St. Nicholas and while we were getting our stamp I asked the girl for directions. Within a few minutes of leaving the church we were checking into our hotel.
The hotel had no air conditioning and we had to go downstairs to use the computer to connect to wifi. The first thing we did was open the windows as wide as possible to let some air in. Fortunately, the lounge was much cooler that our room. We slept with at least one of the windows wide open the two days we stayed. After getting refreshed and organized we headed down to the cafe in the hotel and grabbed a bite to eat. This is for my family: DON´T FALL OVER!!!!!! I had a pizza and it was yummy. Then we headed over to the lounge and spent the hotter part of the day there. I worked on my journal and zentangle.
From the time we left Morgade to the time we arrived in Portomarin I took 14176 steps for a total of 10.648 km in 272.11 minutes. What kept me going was the artists on my Italian pop playlist: Antonello Venditti, Povia, Anna Tantangelo, Eros Ramazzotti among others.
Then when we knew that the shops were open we headed into town to pick up a few souvenirs and look around. Then we headed back to the hotel and had dinner. After dinner, we worked on our blogs and then I left Carleana on the computer and went to work on my journal and zentangle.
So today was day 2 of our Camino and the day did not start too auspiciously because I had the start of a migraine as well as bit of an upset tummy. I had a shower and took something for my head and we headed down for breakfast bringing our luggage. I asked the receptionist to call a taxi, but he said that it would be there in 2 minutes so we might want to wait. We went in and had breakfast; afterwards we went back to the room for a health break and to get our packs and walking sticks. We went back to the lobby and the receptionist called the taxi. Surprise it was actually there in about 2 minutes.
We got in and fastened our seat belts. Thank goodness!?!?!?!?!! The driver was some kind of kamikaze even though he looked to be in his 60s. He drove fast and whipped around the corners like he was racing in the Monaco Grand Pr ix. He took out a flock of birds, narrowly missed both dogs and pilgrims, We finally arrived in Morgade and it was a beautiful, crisp clear and cool morning.
I got my iphone out and set up the pedometer and got my music queued up. As I walked the kinks slowly were being worked out and I was enjoying the peace and quiet. We were alone on the path for a long time and it was all farmland with winding dirt paths. Now the farms are really small--in that they would be more like what a large back yard would look like. In some patches there was corn or wheat and in others there were cows. The little hamlets that dotted the paths were made up of may 4 to 5 houses with outbuildings for cars and farm equipment. You had to keep your eyes on the path because it was often littered with cow droppings (not only the paths but as you walked through "town" too).
Today I spent a lot of time walking by myself, either because I was ahead of Carleana (very rarely) or I was behind her. I just walked along, listening to my playlist with one headphone and the sounds of nature with my free ear (there were birds singing everywhere and the wind was rustling the leaves of the trees). Whereas yesterday it was mostly uphill and bubbling brooks, today it was a lot of downhill with steep declines over rock outcroppings (it reminded me a lot of northern Ontario). There was a lot less habitation and more wooded areas and farmland. There were a lot of steep declines where you had to walk carefully so as not to fall or slip, some of it was over rocks. I was extremely grateful for having my walking stick.
I found walking today much more peaceful. Maybe because there wasn´t as much traffic with pilgrims. I had a good day walking. During the earlier part of the walk there was an old man taking his cows to pasture. I was actually walking with Carleana and I said to her that I it was like watching a tradition that hadn´t changed in hundreds of years. When I thought all the cows had passed, I started walking and another cow came along followed by a little old lady who was probably the old man's wife. The cow was right beside me; if I had held out my hand I would have been able to touch a cow.
The whole time I was walking through that oak forest it all seemed surreal; there was an otherworld feeling as I thought about how those same trees and rocks had been there for hundreds, if not thousands of years and what tales they could tell about what they had seen. There was something that was both primal and progressive; a kind of ying and yang. It was almost a shock to have to leave the cool peacefulness of the woods and start walking along the gravel road.
The rest of the day's walk went well, but at one point while walking downhill I couldn´t help but wonder when I would have to pay for it by going uphill again. Eventually we reached the bridge heading into Portomarin. This bridge had been the subject of some discussion because Carleana is afraid of bridges. We stopped and took pictures before crossing and Carleana videoed herself as she crossed. She managed it with grace. Then we continued onward looking for our hotel. Eventually we found the Church of St. Nicholas and while we were getting our stamp I asked the girl for directions. Within a few minutes of leaving the church we were checking into our hotel.
The hotel had no air conditioning and we had to go downstairs to use the computer to connect to wifi. The first thing we did was open the windows as wide as possible to let some air in. Fortunately, the lounge was much cooler that our room. We slept with at least one of the windows wide open the two days we stayed. After getting refreshed and organized we headed down to the cafe in the hotel and grabbed a bite to eat. This is for my family: DON´T FALL OVER!!!!!! I had a pizza and it was yummy. Then we headed over to the lounge and spent the hotter part of the day there. I worked on my journal and zentangle.
From the time we left Morgade to the time we arrived in Portomarin I took 14176 steps for a total of 10.648 km in 272.11 minutes. What kept me going was the artists on my Italian pop playlist: Antonello Venditti, Povia, Anna Tantangelo, Eros Ramazzotti among others.
Then when we knew that the shops were open we headed into town to pick up a few souvenirs and look around. Then we headed back to the hotel and had dinner. After dinner, we worked on our blogs and then I left Carleana on the computer and went to work on my journal and zentangle.
Camino Day 1 Sarria to Morgade
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
Be warned that this is being posted as I am on Day 5.
When the walk up call came I was kind of half awake so it wasn´t such a shock. We went down and had breakfast then went back to the room and grabbed our packs and walking sticks. The first day was supposed to be 11.5 km but by the end I was more than sure that it was more (maybe it just felt like it!) So the first marker said 111 km to Santiago but we say the same thing two more times and by this time were out of Sarria and well into some wooded areas. We started by walking up the stairs to the church of Santa Marina and then climbing the hill to the Monastery of St. Magadelena and then down another steep hill where we say the second 111 km marker. We turned right at the bottom of the hill and continued along a dirt track and followed it around in a by U where the marker said . . . 111 km. Right then and there I decided to run my pedometer app starting the next day. What I should have done was started it right then but I didn't think of it.
The path continued along the railroad tracks on a dirt track that slowly began to slope uphill and then downhill. The paths varied between gravel, packed dirt, and loose rocks and dirt. I kept stopping to catch my breathe and to hydrate. It was rather sticky with humidity that first day and I was sweating buckets. When I was walking in the woods, I wore my ball cap but the back of my neck was getting warm when not in the shade of the trees and I needed to put on sunscreen. Along the way there were some breathtaking views that I will share when I get home and get the photos from the photographer (Carleana). There were luscious rolling green hills dotted with clumps of trees and bushes--all of them in varied shades of green. All the while we walked in the woods I was surprised by the lack of mosquitoes (not that I really wanted them) but that was not the story with the flies: they were everywhere!!!!!
As for getting our Camino passport stamped, sometimes it was clear where to go and other times it was like a game of hide and go seek; but we found all the places eventually. Our first stamp was at the Hotel and then at the first little hamlet we came to. I am glad to here because I am proving something to myself and learning that I am stronger than I thought I was. Today was hard on so many levels mainly because I wasn´t expecting it to be so hilly and that the terrain would be so rough--I mean I was climbing over rocks and tree roots and rough stones. I did survive the day and we managed to finish in about 4 hours.
When we got to Morgade we got the passports stamped and then I called for a taxi. And we waited and we waited and we waited--it seemed like forever. Finally, the taxi driver arrived and we headed back to Sarria. We had the taxi driver stop at the farmacia (pharmacy) because I was sore and wanted to get some Epsom salts and buy a tube of arnica cream. That was a bit of a challenge given that my Spanish was just starting to come back, but finally the person (pharmacist maybe) who spoke English was freed up and was able to help. I got something like Epsom salts and a tube of arnica gel.
We went back to the supermarket and grabbed a few more cold cuts and bread and water, Then we went back to the hotel and got cleaned up and made sandwiches for lunch. Carleana had a nap and I went down to the cafe for a cappuccino and to write my journal and do my zentangle for the day. Later we went for a walk and finished off the cold cuts and other goodies we had bought since we were changing hotels the next day.
Be warned that this is being posted as I am on Day 5.
When the walk up call came I was kind of half awake so it wasn´t such a shock. We went down and had breakfast then went back to the room and grabbed our packs and walking sticks. The first day was supposed to be 11.5 km but by the end I was more than sure that it was more (maybe it just felt like it!) So the first marker said 111 km to Santiago but we say the same thing two more times and by this time were out of Sarria and well into some wooded areas. We started by walking up the stairs to the church of Santa Marina and then climbing the hill to the Monastery of St. Magadelena and then down another steep hill where we say the second 111 km marker. We turned right at the bottom of the hill and continued along a dirt track and followed it around in a by U where the marker said . . . 111 km. Right then and there I decided to run my pedometer app starting the next day. What I should have done was started it right then but I didn't think of it.
The path continued along the railroad tracks on a dirt track that slowly began to slope uphill and then downhill. The paths varied between gravel, packed dirt, and loose rocks and dirt. I kept stopping to catch my breathe and to hydrate. It was rather sticky with humidity that first day and I was sweating buckets. When I was walking in the woods, I wore my ball cap but the back of my neck was getting warm when not in the shade of the trees and I needed to put on sunscreen. Along the way there were some breathtaking views that I will share when I get home and get the photos from the photographer (Carleana). There were luscious rolling green hills dotted with clumps of trees and bushes--all of them in varied shades of green. All the while we walked in the woods I was surprised by the lack of mosquitoes (not that I really wanted them) but that was not the story with the flies: they were everywhere!!!!!
As for getting our Camino passport stamped, sometimes it was clear where to go and other times it was like a game of hide and go seek; but we found all the places eventually. Our first stamp was at the Hotel and then at the first little hamlet we came to. I am glad to here because I am proving something to myself and learning that I am stronger than I thought I was. Today was hard on so many levels mainly because I wasn´t expecting it to be so hilly and that the terrain would be so rough--I mean I was climbing over rocks and tree roots and rough stones. I did survive the day and we managed to finish in about 4 hours.
When we got to Morgade we got the passports stamped and then I called for a taxi. And we waited and we waited and we waited--it seemed like forever. Finally, the taxi driver arrived and we headed back to Sarria. We had the taxi driver stop at the farmacia (pharmacy) because I was sore and wanted to get some Epsom salts and buy a tube of arnica cream. That was a bit of a challenge given that my Spanish was just starting to come back, but finally the person (pharmacist maybe) who spoke English was freed up and was able to help. I got something like Epsom salts and a tube of arnica gel.
We went back to the supermarket and grabbed a few more cold cuts and bread and water, Then we went back to the hotel and got cleaned up and made sandwiches for lunch. Carleana had a nap and I went down to the cafe for a cappuccino and to write my journal and do my zentangle for the day. Later we went for a walk and finished off the cold cuts and other goodies we had bought since we were changing hotels the next day.
Thursday, July 19, 2012
Camino Day 7 Arzua to Rua
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
So this was the day that I was dreading because I knew it would be a long day and it was 18 km. Well it was a really long day and it started to get hot early. But we also made it a point to stop regularly. Our plan was to get up at 6 and to leave for 6:30. One look outside at the pitch black streets and we went back to sleep. I had not slept well so one part of me was all for sleeping in and getting a taxi to the halfway point but I didn't.
As we were getting ready I kept hearing the sounds of walking sticks out the window. I was to discover in a little while that the start of today's walk was on the road under our window. Just as we were leaving we met the proprietor and handed in our key. So we walked through town and onto a dirt track heading past some grazing horses and the uphill to a little hamlet where everybody was still asleep. Today was a day of milestones and tiny celebrations.
At 33 km we ran into a bubbling brook as we walked along the dirt track. Then at 31 km we stopped at a cafe and had our breakfast. I had a cafe con leche and some of the cookies I had bought yesterday. We walked a bit further and reached the 30 km mark (we had walked 81 km). It was around this time that I stopped in this shady wooded alcove with stone seats. I had lost Carleana and decided to take a break until she caught up. She did and as we sat resting, the Irish family walked by.
We continued on our walk and eventually we made a stop at a cafe with lots of other pilgrims. It was a pretty neat place as the walls and chairs were all covered with messages left by other pilgrims. I left a message on a chair. We got back on the road and met up with a couple of Spanish ladies who were walking the camino for the first time. We walked for a few km with them. As we walked, I chatted with them and then we parted ways. It was during this section that we reached the 24.5 km mark at a place called Xen.
By the 24 km marker it was 2:30 and I couldn't go any further. We stopped in Rabina for some food and a much needed break. We only had another 4 km but we were tired and hungry and desperate for a health break. We stopped at the cafe/bar and had some lunch and a bit of a longer rest, I had a lettuce, cheese, tomato and tuna sandwich with some fries. Just as we were finishing, our Irish gentleman walks in and we take advantage of a few more minutes to rest. We left after I fished my cappuccino.
As we were walking, we kept hearing these really loud noises--they were either gunshots or so someone shooting something off. Fortunately, we were walking mostly in the shade and I used my wet face cloth to keep me cool. We walked and walked and walked until we saw the sign for Rua.
As we crossed the highway we were treated by a motion actuated sign welcoming us and wish us a safe Camino. We took our first wrong turn but fortunately a dog started barking and his owner came out; he got us going in the right direction. The last few hundred meters always seem to take forever and we arrived tired, dusty and exhausted.
At the 20 km mark, we stopped and celebrated because it meant we had completed 90 km of our camino. The last few hundred meters always seem to take forever and we arrived tired, dusty and exhausted. We got checked in and found that this hotel actually had air conditioning. We cranked the ac and got cleaned up. It was a nice reward to have a room that was blissfully air conditioned. I took a while to get cleaned up, pampered my feet with a massage and slathered them in cream. Then I spent the rest of the time cooling off, journaling and relaxing.
Then we went to the cafe next door for dinner. It was good. Carleana stayed downstairs to use the computer and I went upstairs to the room to work on my blog and get organized for the next day. It was cool enough to sleep well.
Today was 27 670 steps, 30.618 km, 475.16 minutes and my Italian pop playlist.
So this was the day that I was dreading because I knew it would be a long day and it was 18 km. Well it was a really long day and it started to get hot early. But we also made it a point to stop regularly. Our plan was to get up at 6 and to leave for 6:30. One look outside at the pitch black streets and we went back to sleep. I had not slept well so one part of me was all for sleeping in and getting a taxi to the halfway point but I didn't.
As we were getting ready I kept hearing the sounds of walking sticks out the window. I was to discover in a little while that the start of today's walk was on the road under our window. Just as we were leaving we met the proprietor and handed in our key. So we walked through town and onto a dirt track heading past some grazing horses and the uphill to a little hamlet where everybody was still asleep. Today was a day of milestones and tiny celebrations.
At 33 km we ran into a bubbling brook as we walked along the dirt track. Then at 31 km we stopped at a cafe and had our breakfast. I had a cafe con leche and some of the cookies I had bought yesterday. We walked a bit further and reached the 30 km mark (we had walked 81 km). It was around this time that I stopped in this shady wooded alcove with stone seats. I had lost Carleana and decided to take a break until she caught up. She did and as we sat resting, the Irish family walked by.
We continued on our walk and eventually we made a stop at a cafe with lots of other pilgrims. It was a pretty neat place as the walls and chairs were all covered with messages left by other pilgrims. I left a message on a chair. We got back on the road and met up with a couple of Spanish ladies who were walking the camino for the first time. We walked for a few km with them. As we walked, I chatted with them and then we parted ways. It was during this section that we reached the 24.5 km mark at a place called Xen.
By the 24 km marker it was 2:30 and I couldn't go any further. We stopped in Rabina for some food and a much needed break. We only had another 4 km but we were tired and hungry and desperate for a health break. We stopped at the cafe/bar and had some lunch and a bit of a longer rest, I had a lettuce, cheese, tomato and tuna sandwich with some fries. Just as we were finishing, our Irish gentleman walks in and we take advantage of a few more minutes to rest. We left after I fished my cappuccino.
As we were walking, we kept hearing these really loud noises--they were either gunshots or so someone shooting something off. Fortunately, we were walking mostly in the shade and I used my wet face cloth to keep me cool. We walked and walked and walked until we saw the sign for Rua.
As we crossed the highway we were treated by a motion actuated sign welcoming us and wish us a safe Camino. We took our first wrong turn but fortunately a dog started barking and his owner came out; he got us going in the right direction. The last few hundred meters always seem to take forever and we arrived tired, dusty and exhausted.
At the 20 km mark, we stopped and celebrated because it meant we had completed 90 km of our camino. The last few hundred meters always seem to take forever and we arrived tired, dusty and exhausted. We got checked in and found that this hotel actually had air conditioning. We cranked the ac and got cleaned up. It was a nice reward to have a room that was blissfully air conditioned. I took a while to get cleaned up, pampered my feet with a massage and slathered them in cream. Then I spent the rest of the time cooling off, journaling and relaxing.
Then we went to the cafe next door for dinner. It was good. Carleana stayed downstairs to use the computer and I went upstairs to the room to work on my blog and get organized for the next day. It was cool enough to sleep well.
Today was 27 670 steps, 30.618 km, 475.16 minutes and my Italian pop playlist.
Camini Day 6 Melide to Arzua
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator. I am blogging after writing my journal and even if my blog is not been kept current my journal is completely up to date and very useful for when I blog.
This morning when my alarm went off it took a few minutes to sink in; then I remembered where I was and what I was doing. I put away as much as I could, got dressed and then we went down with our suitcases. Then we went back up to get out stuff and we were off.
We had to tag on an extra km because our hotel was off the Camino track. Eventually we got to the day's start for our walk. We walked through the city streets to a dirt track with rocks sticking out until we arrived at a lovely church where we went inside for a look around.
The path continued on and the trees looked like a trellis only it continued for quite a ways. We walked down the forest track until we reached Boente de Arriba where we stopped for a health break and a drink. We got back on the road and walked through some truly amazing and mind blowing vistas. Two places stand out because they were so lovely: t he first was a pool of water no larger than a small back yard pool surrounded by large boulders and enclosed by pines, oaks and giant ferns. It looked tranquil and enchanting.
The second place was even more astounding and looked like a natural work of art: there was a side meandering brook about as wide as a driveway flowing by with trees and plants along it's borders. The water was so clear that you could count the tiny brown pebbles and larger stones on the bottom. It couldn't have been more than a foot deep but to cross it were 6 or 7 very large flat boulders about 2 and 1/2 feet wide. It all made an absolutely breathtaking picture and I was completely entranced until I started to walk over it and had to look down to cross. That was when my heart started pounding in my throat and my sight started to glaze over. Ask my family, they will tell you that I have problems standing in a chair!!!!!!! For a moment I just froze and couldn't move--thank goodness there were people behind me and I had to move. With an enormous effort and a lot of self talk, I slowly and carefully placed my walking stick where I found a secure spot and moved forward, then another spot and another step forward until I reached the dirt track. Carleana took a picture and it will remain one of my most treasured memories of this Camino even if it was my most terrifying experience.
As we walked pass Catanada and Rio, the path changed from gravel to dry dirt to just plain dirt. Every once in a while we would see some cow droppings which we avoided. On either side there were small dairy farms, corn and wheat fields and almost every house we passed had a vegetable garden. As we walked by one garden I notice some zucchini flowers. Carleana and I were actually walking together at the time and I mentioned that they made me think of my nonna Umbertina and how in the summer she would go out into the garden early and pick the flowers, clean them and the stuff them. They were always so good! The last several days I have thought alot about my grandparents--especially my nonna Umbertina because she had such an influence on me.
We stopped for a rest at a spot with lots of trees and picnic tables. It was a good thing because the next section was a series of steady inclines and then leveling off before going up again. We went through a section where I had to do my counting thing just to get through. The good thing was that all this climbing was taking place in a nice cool forest track.!!! When we weren't climbing into the clouds, we were going downhill which kills the front of your thighs and pushs your toes into the front of your shoes.
We decided to stop for a break at Ribadea de Baixo because according to the walking notes we were to go up a very steep hill after that. By mutual consent we stopped at a little hillside cafe. While we were nursing our cokes, we met up with our Irish gentleman. Not sure if I have already mentioned this but he is a retired music teacher from Cork Ireland. Then a group of 3 people showed up speaking in English and we had a chat with them--they had all started in St Jean 33 days ago (a Canadian and a grandfather with his daughter and grandchildren from Calorado). They hoped to be in Santiago the next day as the were walking about 30 km a day. We left shortly thereafter and ran into the parental half of the Irish family we had met in Portomarin. They were stopped at a cafe and the two teenage daughters had been running to Arzua.
I was really dreading this steep incline which our walking notes had mentioned, but once we saw the sign for Arzua I mentioned to Carleana that we had had worse climbs. Earlier in the day we had seen this green roof on the horizon and Carleana said that that was where we were heading. Sure enough as we walked into Arzua we passed that green roofed building. We kept going into town, found a supermarket and got supplies for a picnic lunch and checked into our hotel.
First order of business was food. Then while Carleana had a nap I had an Epsom salt bath for my poor back, thighs and feet. It felt so good not to move and not to think! Since it was hot in our room, we left the windows open and went downstairs where I worked on day 4's blog and ordered a cappuccino. It was the most horrific thing I had ever tasted--on par with that fish from Sarria. (At this point I was a little bit apprehensive about what dinner would bring.) It tasted like dirty dish water!!! I drank my aqua minerala con gas instead. When my iphone battery was close to giving out, I went upstairs to write my journal and charge my phone.
By then the room was much cooler. Our hotel room is at the back of the hotel and overlooks green hills, meadows and farms. It is supposed to be a quiet room. As we are getting ready for dinner I could hear mooing and Carleana mentions that there is a dairy farm just out our window.
We went out for a bit of shopping before dinner. We also decided that since the next day we were walking 18 km (the most ever) we weren't going to wait until 8 am to have breakfast. So we picked up a few things at the supermercado and did some souvenir shopping before heading back to the hotel for dinner.
We go in for dinner and we are given like 8 choices for a starter and the same for a main dish. We both choose the soup and chicken. Both were good--it was a cabbage soup with potatoes and white beans which wasn't salty. The chicken had a bit of curry or saffron and boiled baby potatoes. For dessert I had a yummy creme caramel. Then I go back to the lounge to finish up my blog before heading up to bed and a second tub.
This morning when my alarm went off it took a few minutes to sink in; then I remembered where I was and what I was doing. I put away as much as I could, got dressed and then we went down with our suitcases. Then we went back up to get out stuff and we were off.
We had to tag on an extra km because our hotel was off the Camino track. Eventually we got to the day's start for our walk. We walked through the city streets to a dirt track with rocks sticking out until we arrived at a lovely church where we went inside for a look around.
The path continued on and the trees looked like a trellis only it continued for quite a ways. We walked down the forest track until we reached Boente de Arriba where we stopped for a health break and a drink. We got back on the road and walked through some truly amazing and mind blowing vistas. Two places stand out because they were so lovely: t he first was a pool of water no larger than a small back yard pool surrounded by large boulders and enclosed by pines, oaks and giant ferns. It looked tranquil and enchanting.
The second place was even more astounding and looked like a natural work of art: there was a side meandering brook about as wide as a driveway flowing by with trees and plants along it's borders. The water was so clear that you could count the tiny brown pebbles and larger stones on the bottom. It couldn't have been more than a foot deep but to cross it were 6 or 7 very large flat boulders about 2 and 1/2 feet wide. It all made an absolutely breathtaking picture and I was completely entranced until I started to walk over it and had to look down to cross. That was when my heart started pounding in my throat and my sight started to glaze over. Ask my family, they will tell you that I have problems standing in a chair!!!!!!! For a moment I just froze and couldn't move--thank goodness there were people behind me and I had to move. With an enormous effort and a lot of self talk, I slowly and carefully placed my walking stick where I found a secure spot and moved forward, then another spot and another step forward until I reached the dirt track. Carleana took a picture and it will remain one of my most treasured memories of this Camino even if it was my most terrifying experience.
As we walked pass Catanada and Rio, the path changed from gravel to dry dirt to just plain dirt. Every once in a while we would see some cow droppings which we avoided. On either side there were small dairy farms, corn and wheat fields and almost every house we passed had a vegetable garden. As we walked by one garden I notice some zucchini flowers. Carleana and I were actually walking together at the time and I mentioned that they made me think of my nonna Umbertina and how in the summer she would go out into the garden early and pick the flowers, clean them and the stuff them. They were always so good! The last several days I have thought alot about my grandparents--especially my nonna Umbertina because she had such an influence on me.
We stopped for a rest at a spot with lots of trees and picnic tables. It was a good thing because the next section was a series of steady inclines and then leveling off before going up again. We went through a section where I had to do my counting thing just to get through. The good thing was that all this climbing was taking place in a nice cool forest track.!!! When we weren't climbing into the clouds, we were going downhill which kills the front of your thighs and pushs your toes into the front of your shoes.
We decided to stop for a break at Ribadea de Baixo because according to the walking notes we were to go up a very steep hill after that. By mutual consent we stopped at a little hillside cafe. While we were nursing our cokes, we met up with our Irish gentleman. Not sure if I have already mentioned this but he is a retired music teacher from Cork Ireland. Then a group of 3 people showed up speaking in English and we had a chat with them--they had all started in St Jean 33 days ago (a Canadian and a grandfather with his daughter and grandchildren from Calorado). They hoped to be in Santiago the next day as the were walking about 30 km a day. We left shortly thereafter and ran into the parental half of the Irish family we had met in Portomarin. They were stopped at a cafe and the two teenage daughters had been running to Arzua.
I was really dreading this steep incline which our walking notes had mentioned, but once we saw the sign for Arzua I mentioned to Carleana that we had had worse climbs. Earlier in the day we had seen this green roof on the horizon and Carleana said that that was where we were heading. Sure enough as we walked into Arzua we passed that green roofed building. We kept going into town, found a supermarket and got supplies for a picnic lunch and checked into our hotel.
First order of business was food. Then while Carleana had a nap I had an Epsom salt bath for my poor back, thighs and feet. It felt so good not to move and not to think! Since it was hot in our room, we left the windows open and went downstairs where I worked on day 4's blog and ordered a cappuccino. It was the most horrific thing I had ever tasted--on par with that fish from Sarria. (At this point I was a little bit apprehensive about what dinner would bring.) It tasted like dirty dish water!!! I drank my aqua minerala con gas instead. When my iphone battery was close to giving out, I went upstairs to write my journal and charge my phone.
By then the room was much cooler. Our hotel room is at the back of the hotel and overlooks green hills, meadows and farms. It is supposed to be a quiet room. As we are getting ready for dinner I could hear mooing and Carleana mentions that there is a dairy farm just out our window.
We went out for a bit of shopping before dinner. We also decided that since the next day we were walking 18 km (the most ever) we weren't going to wait until 8 am to have breakfast. So we picked up a few things at the supermercado and did some souvenir shopping before heading back to the hotel for dinner.
We go in for dinner and we are given like 8 choices for a starter and the same for a main dish. We both choose the soup and chicken. Both were good--it was a cabbage soup with potatoes and white beans which wasn't salty. The chicken had a bit of curry or saffron and boiled baby potatoes. For dessert I had a yummy creme caramel. Then I go back to the lounge to finish up my blog before heading up to bed and a second tub.
Camino Day 5 Palas de Rei to Melide
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
Today we had a very disappointing start to our day. After we get dressed and packed our last little bits into the suitcases we drop off our bags and went for breakfast. Every other place we had a little breakfast buffet with different thing like pastries, bread, cheese, salami, fruit as well as juice, coffee and yogurt. Not today we were given a croissant and juice. Then I asked for coffee and they brought a huge carafe with another carafe of hot milk. After our breakfast, we grabbed our backpacks and sticks and off we went.
As we walked all I could think of was our first day in Sarria. Like that day, it took us quite a while to get across Palas de Rei and back onto the peacefulness of the Camino. We walked into a small hamlet and into a wooded area in an inverted C-- up a dirt track across some stones and back onto the dirt track until it turned downhill meeting with the highway. Most of our walk today was through some pretty and cool landscape filled with trees, ferns and stone walls. We crossed the highway many times over the course of the day.
The steep dirt track finally reached its summit and I started going down. It was at this point that I lost Carleana to the photographer's calling. Besides I was getting hungry and needed a health break. So I reached San Xulian de Camino where there was a small pensione and bar. I waited for Carleana, after what seemed like a long while I started to worry and as I was debating whether or not to head back and look for her she rounded the corner. We went inside and ordered a bocadillo de queso each and I had a cappuccino. The bocadillo was the dense bread we've been eating with olive oil on the bread and goat cheese. I took off the top and ate the bottom with the cheese. I also had a cafe con leche. Another trip to the wc and we were good to go.
From San Xulian we made our way to Casanova through a dense forest track with massive rock outcroppings. While we walked we met up with the German couple from Sarria and stopped for a chat. There are a number of people that we keep running into every day and who we chat with about how it's going. When we met up with them they were taking pictures and Carleana offered to take one of both of them. They then took one of us. We walked together for a bit and stopped along the way to stamp our passports. They had actually started their camino in St. Jean but they took a car until they reached Sarria and from there walked.
It was quite a steep climb up and eventually we reached the hamlet of Leboreiro. There was a lovely medieval church which we went inside and I lit a candle for a continuation of good weather for our Camino. Then began the long stretch between Disicabo and Melide (7.5km). It had all types of roads--paved, dirt , stone and hills up and down and all around through forests and along the highways. It was a long trek and my feet were burning and overheated. Just when I thought I was done for and I was ready to call a cab we'd enter into a cool shady forest track and I would revive. Today we saw horses grazing in the woods.
Just as I was getting desperate for a health break, we saw a bar along the way. We stopped for some cokes and a health break. If I hadn't had to go so very badly I would just have left. I did what I had too as quickly as possible and touched as little as possible!!!!! In case you don't know it I am a girly girl and don't do the outdoors very well. This washroom was like something out of a nightmare and it is best forgotten.
Onward and upward as we climbed another hill, turned a corner and finally found our hotel. We were pleasantly surprised that the guy behind the counter spoke fluent British English. He had grown up in London. We got to our room, freshened up and chilled for a bit before going to get something to eat-it was now almost 3 pm.
We had a lovely lunch; I had a salad with lettuce, tomato and olives and a grill half chicken breast and thigh with fries and a creme caramel. It was great and not slathered in salt. After lunch I worked on my journal and zentangle until about 6:30 when we headed into town where we got our usual supplies and I bought an apple to have for the road.
On the way into Melide we stopped to take a picture of the oldest crucifix on the Camino and the lovely little church beside it (which was closed). I bought a really pretty scarf because I found that my neck was cold during the early part of the day. I figured I could have it around my neck during the morning and then use it as a headband later. We were told to try the pastries for which the town is named melisandres-they tasted like a chou pastry without the creme fraiche! Yuck!!!!!
We went back to the hotel and neither of us was hungry. Later I ate my apple and a granola bar which was exactly what I needed. I got my bag packed and went to sleep. Today was 16.3 km and it took us 7 hours, I used my newly created Camino playlist.
Today we had a very disappointing start to our day. After we get dressed and packed our last little bits into the suitcases we drop off our bags and went for breakfast. Every other place we had a little breakfast buffet with different thing like pastries, bread, cheese, salami, fruit as well as juice, coffee and yogurt. Not today we were given a croissant and juice. Then I asked for coffee and they brought a huge carafe with another carafe of hot milk. After our breakfast, we grabbed our backpacks and sticks and off we went.
As we walked all I could think of was our first day in Sarria. Like that day, it took us quite a while to get across Palas de Rei and back onto the peacefulness of the Camino. We walked into a small hamlet and into a wooded area in an inverted C-- up a dirt track across some stones and back onto the dirt track until it turned downhill meeting with the highway. Most of our walk today was through some pretty and cool landscape filled with trees, ferns and stone walls. We crossed the highway many times over the course of the day.
The steep dirt track finally reached its summit and I started going down. It was at this point that I lost Carleana to the photographer's calling. Besides I was getting hungry and needed a health break. So I reached San Xulian de Camino where there was a small pensione and bar. I waited for Carleana, after what seemed like a long while I started to worry and as I was debating whether or not to head back and look for her she rounded the corner. We went inside and ordered a bocadillo de queso each and I had a cappuccino. The bocadillo was the dense bread we've been eating with olive oil on the bread and goat cheese. I took off the top and ate the bottom with the cheese. I also had a cafe con leche. Another trip to the wc and we were good to go.
From San Xulian we made our way to Casanova through a dense forest track with massive rock outcroppings. While we walked we met up with the German couple from Sarria and stopped for a chat. There are a number of people that we keep running into every day and who we chat with about how it's going. When we met up with them they were taking pictures and Carleana offered to take one of both of them. They then took one of us. We walked together for a bit and stopped along the way to stamp our passports. They had actually started their camino in St. Jean but they took a car until they reached Sarria and from there walked.
It was quite a steep climb up and eventually we reached the hamlet of Leboreiro. There was a lovely medieval church which we went inside and I lit a candle for a continuation of good weather for our Camino. Then began the long stretch between Disicabo and Melide (7.5km). It had all types of roads--paved, dirt , stone and hills up and down and all around through forests and along the highways. It was a long trek and my feet were burning and overheated. Just when I thought I was done for and I was ready to call a cab we'd enter into a cool shady forest track and I would revive. Today we saw horses grazing in the woods.
Just as I was getting desperate for a health break, we saw a bar along the way. We stopped for some cokes and a health break. If I hadn't had to go so very badly I would just have left. I did what I had too as quickly as possible and touched as little as possible!!!!! In case you don't know it I am a girly girl and don't do the outdoors very well. This washroom was like something out of a nightmare and it is best forgotten.
Onward and upward as we climbed another hill, turned a corner and finally found our hotel. We were pleasantly surprised that the guy behind the counter spoke fluent British English. He had grown up in London. We got to our room, freshened up and chilled for a bit before going to get something to eat-it was now almost 3 pm.
We had a lovely lunch; I had a salad with lettuce, tomato and olives and a grill half chicken breast and thigh with fries and a creme caramel. It was great and not slathered in salt. After lunch I worked on my journal and zentangle until about 6:30 when we headed into town where we got our usual supplies and I bought an apple to have for the road.
On the way into Melide we stopped to take a picture of the oldest crucifix on the Camino and the lovely little church beside it (which was closed). I bought a really pretty scarf because I found that my neck was cold during the early part of the day. I figured I could have it around my neck during the morning and then use it as a headband later. We were told to try the pastries for which the town is named melisandres-they tasted like a chou pastry without the creme fraiche! Yuck!!!!!
We went back to the hotel and neither of us was hungry. Later I ate my apple and a granola bar which was exactly what I needed. I got my bag packed and went to sleep. Today was 16.3 km and it took us 7 hours, I used my newly created Camino playlist.
Camino Day 4 Ventas de Naron to Palas de Rei
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
After a much better nights sleep, I woke up before me wake up call. We got organized and went down to breakfast with the suitcases. After breakfast we went back to get our packs and walking sticks. Back downstairs to wait for the taxi. Today the taxi ride was much smoother to the point that even in the front seat I was dozing off. Once we arrived at Ventas I asked the tax driver about these concrete structures that we were seeing all over the place. She explained that they were for storing corn.
We started walking. It was quite cool and foggy. As we walked along the paved road it was quiet and peaceful. Looking out at the fog it seemed to look like frosting that had been drizzled on the hills. While walking I went under some pine trees and felt a trickle of water drop on my head. Thinking it was starting to rain I looked up to the sky. What had happened was that droplet of water had fallen off the pine needle. When I looked back up I saw that all the pine needles had water droplets and in the early morning mist they sparkled like diamonds.
I continued to walk. Carleana and I got separated but I figured that she was talking pictures. The whole time I was walking it felt like I was alone in the world, it was a bit of a shock when another pilgrim passed me. It was rather chilly and I kept walking glad that I had purchased that long sleeve shirt. I knew that sooner or later Carleana would catch up. It was a short while later that we did catch up with each other and we decided that we would stop for a health break at the next cafe that we found.
We stopped at a pensione in Ligonde and got our passports stamped. I noticed that the person cleaning up was speaking in English so I asked if he was an expat or in a working holiday? He introduced himself as Jim and he said that he was part of a church group who was over for a couple of weeks. They had spent a week in the south of Spain with missionary from their church and were spend this week running the pilgrim's pension and then they were heading home to Boston. It was really great stopping there because there were also a couple of German girls who were there for the day stamping passports. That was the most rewarding part of this camino, talking with people from so many different places and starting to get a handle on the scope of what this walk means to so many people. It was here that I started to realize the impact that the camino was going to have on me.
As we left the village, we followed the path that veered to the left and became a narrow dirt track with huge stone poking out from the ground; on either side were two stone fences that looked like they had been there forever. It curved around and framed an absolutely lovely vista of rolling hills and green pastures. The stone steps seemed to be carved right out of the very earth and the hills were green and looked like a postcard. In order to negotiate the path, you had to watch where you placed your feet because one false step and it would have been game over.
We were heading towards Brea and as the paved road veered towards a bridge we carried on. Today was a good mix of up and down and variety of tracks and scenery. As well there were lots of places to stop and rest. We stopped at Portas for a health break and a snack. The Ant Track Cafe was a very interesting place. Inside there were pictures of all shapes and sizes of ant tracks and outside were giant mental sculptures of ants. I had a cappuccino and some cookies that we had in our packs.
Off went again and the views were lovely but it was more uphill than down, and, naturally, I fell behind. It was starting to get warmer and although I had taken off my white shirt I was debating putting on my hat. Finally I compromised and put one of my wet face clothes under my hat and it helped to cool me down. Between Brea and Palas de Rei, I took off my hat because there was more shade. While I was walking I met another pilgrim and we chatted for a while in Spanish. It turned out that she was from Peru. By the way, my ease with Spanish is increasing and I am now able to order from the menu and have a basic conversation with more ease.
Almost before we realized we were at Palas de Rei and at our hotel. It looked like the resort in Dirty Dancing. It was a bit weird being on the ground floor but we had the windows open so we could get some air. Anyway, anyone who knows me would know that this was a very uncomfortable place for me.
We did our usually prep stuff but there was no tub so I slathered my feet with arnica gel and took a couple of Advil. After a few hours we went for lunch and then I went back to the room where I worked on my journal and my zentangle. Afterwards we went into town (which was another two km trek--downhill into town and uphill back to our lodgings). The town was all hills as well--needless to say we didn't stay very long. We hung out on the patio of the cafe and worked on our blogs. Then I headed back to our room to relax and worked on my zentangle and journal.
We met up for dinner and I had this soup which had spinach, potatoes, broth and chick peas; it was good but rather salty. Then I had what was supposed to be turkey and it turned out to be pork with fries and for dessert I had creme caramel. Then it was back to the room and some chilling and getting organized for the next day.
So today we walked11.447 km and it took us 245.28 minutes. It was Bryan Addams, the Ladies, Loverboy and other Canadian bands.
Love to my boys and I will text you daily.
After a much better nights sleep, I woke up before me wake up call. We got organized and went down to breakfast with the suitcases. After breakfast we went back to get our packs and walking sticks. Back downstairs to wait for the taxi. Today the taxi ride was much smoother to the point that even in the front seat I was dozing off. Once we arrived at Ventas I asked the tax driver about these concrete structures that we were seeing all over the place. She explained that they were for storing corn.
We started walking. It was quite cool and foggy. As we walked along the paved road it was quiet and peaceful. Looking out at the fog it seemed to look like frosting that had been drizzled on the hills. While walking I went under some pine trees and felt a trickle of water drop on my head. Thinking it was starting to rain I looked up to the sky. What had happened was that droplet of water had fallen off the pine needle. When I looked back up I saw that all the pine needles had water droplets and in the early morning mist they sparkled like diamonds.
I continued to walk. Carleana and I got separated but I figured that she was talking pictures. The whole time I was walking it felt like I was alone in the world, it was a bit of a shock when another pilgrim passed me. It was rather chilly and I kept walking glad that I had purchased that long sleeve shirt. I knew that sooner or later Carleana would catch up. It was a short while later that we did catch up with each other and we decided that we would stop for a health break at the next cafe that we found.
We stopped at a pensione in Ligonde and got our passports stamped. I noticed that the person cleaning up was speaking in English so I asked if he was an expat or in a working holiday? He introduced himself as Jim and he said that he was part of a church group who was over for a couple of weeks. They had spent a week in the south of Spain with missionary from their church and were spend this week running the pilgrim's pension and then they were heading home to Boston. It was really great stopping there because there were also a couple of German girls who were there for the day stamping passports. That was the most rewarding part of this camino, talking with people from so many different places and starting to get a handle on the scope of what this walk means to so many people. It was here that I started to realize the impact that the camino was going to have on me.
As we left the village, we followed the path that veered to the left and became a narrow dirt track with huge stone poking out from the ground; on either side were two stone fences that looked like they had been there forever. It curved around and framed an absolutely lovely vista of rolling hills and green pastures. The stone steps seemed to be carved right out of the very earth and the hills were green and looked like a postcard. In order to negotiate the path, you had to watch where you placed your feet because one false step and it would have been game over.
We were heading towards Brea and as the paved road veered towards a bridge we carried on. Today was a good mix of up and down and variety of tracks and scenery. As well there were lots of places to stop and rest. We stopped at Portas for a health break and a snack. The Ant Track Cafe was a very interesting place. Inside there were pictures of all shapes and sizes of ant tracks and outside were giant mental sculptures of ants. I had a cappuccino and some cookies that we had in our packs.
Off went again and the views were lovely but it was more uphill than down, and, naturally, I fell behind. It was starting to get warmer and although I had taken off my white shirt I was debating putting on my hat. Finally I compromised and put one of my wet face clothes under my hat and it helped to cool me down. Between Brea and Palas de Rei, I took off my hat because there was more shade. While I was walking I met another pilgrim and we chatted for a while in Spanish. It turned out that she was from Peru. By the way, my ease with Spanish is increasing and I am now able to order from the menu and have a basic conversation with more ease.
Almost before we realized we were at Palas de Rei and at our hotel. It looked like the resort in Dirty Dancing. It was a bit weird being on the ground floor but we had the windows open so we could get some air. Anyway, anyone who knows me would know that this was a very uncomfortable place for me.
We did our usually prep stuff but there was no tub so I slathered my feet with arnica gel and took a couple of Advil. After a few hours we went for lunch and then I went back to the room where I worked on my journal and my zentangle. Afterwards we went into town (which was another two km trek--downhill into town and uphill back to our lodgings). The town was all hills as well--needless to say we didn't stay very long. We hung out on the patio of the cafe and worked on our blogs. Then I headed back to our room to relax and worked on my zentangle and journal.
We met up for dinner and I had this soup which had spinach, potatoes, broth and chick peas; it was good but rather salty. Then I had what was supposed to be turkey and it turned out to be pork with fries and for dessert I had creme caramel. Then it was back to the room and some chilling and getting organized for the next day.
So today we walked11.447 km and it took us 245.28 minutes. It was Bryan Addams, the Ladies, Loverboy and other Canadian bands.
Love to my boys and I will text you daily.
Sarria down day July 15
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
This morning I got up at around 10 and as Carleana was still sleeping, I got dressed and went for a cappuccino and something to eat. I brought my journal and my sketchpad to get caught up my adventures. I was in the cafe/bar for about 45 minutes and it was pure heaven just not to be moving and getting a chance to unwind. I was so tired from the traveling that all I wanted last night was a shower and bed!
When I got back upstairs, Carleana was up and ready for some breakfast. And who am I to say no to a second cappuccino?!? We went back to the room and got organized to go out for a bit of shopping. There weren't too many places open but we found a couple. We went for a walk around the parts of town we hadn't seen. As we were walking we ran into some French pilgrims who were looking for directions and I was able to help them. The woman even complimented me on my French! Then we made our way to the church of Santa Marina where I lit a candle for my Camino.
We made our way to the Pilgrim store and got our walking sticks, shells and a few souvenirs. The back to the room and some lunch. Which was part good and part disaster: the ham and cheese tray I had was good but the fish was in edible and the dessert was good. And of course a cappuccino. After lunch we spent the entire afternoon at the table and no one came out to kick us out. I wrote in my journal, did a zentangle and worked on embroidering a baby blanket I had brought with me.
Finally, we went upstairs, freshed up and went for a walk before dinner. We had dinner at the restaurant in the hotel. We split an appetizer which was really good, then we both had the pasta with shrimp ( I couldn't eat the shrimp) and I had a creme caramel with a cappuccino (that made 4 for the day which I would pay for as I had trouble getting to sleep that night). We went back to our room and did a few things then turned in.
This morning I got up at around 10 and as Carleana was still sleeping, I got dressed and went for a cappuccino and something to eat. I brought my journal and my sketchpad to get caught up my adventures. I was in the cafe/bar for about 45 minutes and it was pure heaven just not to be moving and getting a chance to unwind. I was so tired from the traveling that all I wanted last night was a shower and bed!
When I got back upstairs, Carleana was up and ready for some breakfast. And who am I to say no to a second cappuccino?!? We went back to the room and got organized to go out for a bit of shopping. There weren't too many places open but we found a couple. We went for a walk around the parts of town we hadn't seen. As we were walking we ran into some French pilgrims who were looking for directions and I was able to help them. The woman even complimented me on my French! Then we made our way to the church of Santa Marina where I lit a candle for my Camino.
We made our way to the Pilgrim store and got our walking sticks, shells and a few souvenirs. The back to the room and some lunch. Which was part good and part disaster: the ham and cheese tray I had was good but the fish was in edible and the dessert was good. And of course a cappuccino. After lunch we spent the entire afternoon at the table and no one came out to kick us out. I wrote in my journal, did a zentangle and worked on embroidering a baby blanket I had brought with me.
Finally, we went upstairs, freshed up and went for a walk before dinner. We had dinner at the restaurant in the hotel. We split an appetizer which was really good, then we both had the pasta with shrimp ( I couldn't eat the shrimp) and I had a creme caramel with a cappuccino (that made 4 for the day which I would pay for as I had trouble getting to sleep that night). We went back to our room and did a few things then turned in.
Sarria ride from the airport and check in
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
So we found our driver and made our way to Sarria. We had a great driver and I sat in the front seat; she assumed that I was completely fluent in Spanish. We actually had a great conversation and she had some great stories. Her name was Gruc and she was very into the Camino having completed two of the stages as well doing research about it. That was one of the reasons she always does the Airport pick up.
We talked about the plants and trees that are native to the area and I managed to get most of what she was saying. For example there are oak, pine, hazelnut, chestnut, orange, lemon and eucalyptus trees. There are a plethora of hydrangea plants everywhere and they are huge. There is a tradition in southern Spain to have them as part of a wedding bouquet but in Galicia it is considered bad luck. As she drove, she pointed out where the paths for the Camino approached the road and even crossed it.
She told me the story of St Andres of Texieras. Many Gallegos believe that the spirits of the lost inhabited Galicia and that they eventually end up in St Andres where they remain as lost souls or they inhabit small animals and insects. That is why in St Andres it is illegal to hurt any small animals such as ants, other indects and mice and rats.
As we approached Portomarin, she pointed out some ruins under the bridge. She explained that the area would flood on a regular basis and so the government encouraged the people to move further up the hill. They went so far as to move the church of St Nicholas to the top of the hill. To move it the marked each and every stone so that it could be put back exactly where it belong. To get the more reticent people to move, the government released some of the water from a nearby dam; eventually everyone moved to higher ground.
Carleana noticed the pilgrim's shell hanging from her rearview mirror. Gruc explain that in 2010 her youngest daughter's principal contacted her about helping to set up a short Camino for the school--her daughter was eight by the way (and Gruc has 5 children). 2010 was a holy year and she helped to set up a couple of different caminos: the 8 to 10 year olds walked a 5 - 6 km stage and even the 4 year olds walked 3 km. Afterwards the whole school walked the last 3 km to the Cathedrale de Santiago.
We got to the hotel and checked in. We got settled in the room and organized our stuff. Then we went for a walk looking for the Pilgrim's store that Gruc had pointed out to us. We found it and a grocery store where we grabbed some cold cuts, cheese, bread and few other supplies for a picnic on our room. By 10 pm I was done and sound asleep until 3 am when the noise from the downstairs wedding woke me up (we had left the window open). I closed the windows and fell back asleep.
So we found our driver and made our way to Sarria. We had a great driver and I sat in the front seat; she assumed that I was completely fluent in Spanish. We actually had a great conversation and she had some great stories. Her name was Gruc and she was very into the Camino having completed two of the stages as well doing research about it. That was one of the reasons she always does the Airport pick up.
We talked about the plants and trees that are native to the area and I managed to get most of what she was saying. For example there are oak, pine, hazelnut, chestnut, orange, lemon and eucalyptus trees. There are a plethora of hydrangea plants everywhere and they are huge. There is a tradition in southern Spain to have them as part of a wedding bouquet but in Galicia it is considered bad luck. As she drove, she pointed out where the paths for the Camino approached the road and even crossed it.
She told me the story of St Andres of Texieras. Many Gallegos believe that the spirits of the lost inhabited Galicia and that they eventually end up in St Andres where they remain as lost souls or they inhabit small animals and insects. That is why in St Andres it is illegal to hurt any small animals such as ants, other indects and mice and rats.
As we approached Portomarin, she pointed out some ruins under the bridge. She explained that the area would flood on a regular basis and so the government encouraged the people to move further up the hill. They went so far as to move the church of St Nicholas to the top of the hill. To move it the marked each and every stone so that it could be put back exactly where it belong. To get the more reticent people to move, the government released some of the water from a nearby dam; eventually everyone moved to higher ground.
Carleana noticed the pilgrim's shell hanging from her rearview mirror. Gruc explain that in 2010 her youngest daughter's principal contacted her about helping to set up a short Camino for the school--her daughter was eight by the way (and Gruc has 5 children). 2010 was a holy year and she helped to set up a couple of different caminos: the 8 to 10 year olds walked a 5 - 6 km stage and even the 4 year olds walked 3 km. Afterwards the whole school walked the last 3 km to the Cathedrale de Santiago.
We got to the hotel and checked in. We got settled in the room and organized our stuff. Then we went for a walk looking for the Pilgrim's store that Gruc had pointed out to us. We found it and a grocery store where we grabbed some cold cuts, cheese, bread and few other supplies for a picnic on our room. By 10 pm I was done and sound asleep until 3 am when the noise from the downstairs wedding woke me up (we had left the window open). I closed the windows and fell back asleep.
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Camino Day 3 Portomarin to Ventas de Naron
Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
So today we got a bit later start than usual since breakfast wasn't being served until 7:30. We had a quick bite because neither one of us was too hungry. It was really warm in the room last night and since they don´t have air conditioning I had some difficulty getting to sleep. Right after breakfast we left and I had my pedometer app going so that I could record exactly the number of steps and how far I walked (mainly because our hotel was a ways from where the Camino started today). We made our way through town and got on the path.
So yesterday I had thought to myself that we were trailing downhill a lot and at some point the opposite was more than likely to happen. Well it seemed that it all happened within the first 2 km of today´s walk. It was all uphill with a steep 60 degree grade that was nothing more than a narrow track through the woods with rocks, wet dirt and tree roots. Though the climb was a bit of struggle, it was rather cool in the woods. Our walk continued along a dirt track past some farmland and back and forth crossing highways all the while following the dirt tracks. Today it started to get warm early. Unfortunately, there were not a lot of wooded areas nor were there trees as most of this part of the Camino follows along the roads.
Just before Gonzar I was walking through a pine forest carpeted with ferns and bracken and I thought that this very forest probably hadn´t changed much since primordial times when the dinosaurs roamed the earth. The plants were obviously the same as the ferns and trees which would have been found back then as witness by some of the fossils I´ve seen, and it was dreadfully humid just like would imagine it would have been. It seemed to take forever to reach Gonzar where there was a washroom. I was in desperate need after having drunk almost a litre of water. It was a great relief to finally get a health break. That was when I had my second cappucino of the day and it helped me to keep going.
We got back on the road again and passed the hamlet of Castromaior. As we turned the corner we saw it: another 60 degree hill (only this one was paved). Carleana and I looked at each other and said to her that I was going to take 15 steps with my walking stick and drink some water, then I would start again. So I started off counting in Spanish, then in Italian, then in French, then in English, then in Italian and in Spanish. By that time I got to the top I stopped and took a good long drink and gathered my wits before moving on. Seriously, I´m not going to break any land speed records for completing the different stages of this Camino but I will finish each and every stage.
At the next little hamlet, Carleana asked if we were there and it broke my heart to tell her that we still had a little over 2 kms to go. She has been struggling with blisters caused by her shoes and has rarely complained, but today the pain was more than she could bare. I honestly don´t know how she managed to complete this stage of the Camino. I mean I was always bringing up the rear and she just kept on going. At some point during the day, she asked if I could go with her to by a pair of walking sandals, of course I agreed. This was not completely altruistic as I needed to find a long sleeved t-shirt to wear in the mornings since my yellow sweater was way too hot.
Finally we reached Ventas de Naron. We made in a little over 4 hours and we had walked from our hotel door to Ventas de Naron a total of 13.875 kms. I have to say it was not the most pleasant of walks today because there was very little to see. There were a number of spots along the way that were breathtaking and worth every step that I took. The only other thing that kept me going was my British playlist. Thank you Elton, Def Lepperd, Eric, Billy and all the rest.
Once we got to Ventas de Naron I pulled out the card with the taxis phone number, there were two numbers, so I tried the first and got no joy. Then I tried the second and the person who answered said that she had no taxis available. So I told Carleana and she reminded me that she had taken a picture of some of the taxis parked in the plaza at Portomarin which showed a telephone number. So I called the number and stumbled through getting us a taxi in Spanish. At first the woman who answered wasn't going to send one because there was already a taxi in Ventas de Naron. I had already inquired about hiring that one but the girl in the cafe told me that the driver was not available. So I did my best to explain this to the woman on the phone. She finally agreed to send me a taxi but she wanted to get the name of the cafe (this took a few minutes because I couldn´t figure what the cafe's name was, eventually I got it).
When the taxi driver arrived, we got in the taxi. He suggested that someone might want to sit in the front but we said that was okay. It was okay until I realized that this was a big tall guy and the room in the back seat behind him was not that much. Note to self: two people in a European taxi--one in the back and one in the front. The saddest part was that the drive back to Portomarin was only about 15 minutes!
So we took a few minutes to regroup in the hotel, and then went in search of Carleana´s shoes and my t-shirt. We were successful with both and then went back to the hotel for some lunch. Carleana had a cheese sandwich and I had a pizza with ham, mushrooms and cheese on a thin crust. Yes pizza two days in a row!!!!!!
After lunch we went for a dip in the pool--it was freezing when we first got in but it was refreshing after swimming a couple (two) laps. We sat in the lounge chairs for a few minutes to dry off. Once we got a little dry and before we could fall asleep and become lobsters we headed back to our room. We got changed and headed off to the lounge where Carleana wrote her blog and I wrote my journal and worked on today´s zentangle.!! I slipped out and had another cappuccino (my third of the day but there are so good and only 1.5 euros!!!!!)
Before dinner we went for a short walk to the plaza and then had dinner at the hotel. After dinner we got organized for tomorrow´s adventure and our next hotel. On the plus side today our room was a lot cooler tonight so I´m sure that we will both sleep better. A big kiss to each of my boys and I love you all lots.
So today we got a bit later start than usual since breakfast wasn't being served until 7:30. We had a quick bite because neither one of us was too hungry. It was really warm in the room last night and since they don´t have air conditioning I had some difficulty getting to sleep. Right after breakfast we left and I had my pedometer app going so that I could record exactly the number of steps and how far I walked (mainly because our hotel was a ways from where the Camino started today). We made our way through town and got on the path.
So yesterday I had thought to myself that we were trailing downhill a lot and at some point the opposite was more than likely to happen. Well it seemed that it all happened within the first 2 km of today´s walk. It was all uphill with a steep 60 degree grade that was nothing more than a narrow track through the woods with rocks, wet dirt and tree roots. Though the climb was a bit of struggle, it was rather cool in the woods. Our walk continued along a dirt track past some farmland and back and forth crossing highways all the while following the dirt tracks. Today it started to get warm early. Unfortunately, there were not a lot of wooded areas nor were there trees as most of this part of the Camino follows along the roads.
Just before Gonzar I was walking through a pine forest carpeted with ferns and bracken and I thought that this very forest probably hadn´t changed much since primordial times when the dinosaurs roamed the earth. The plants were obviously the same as the ferns and trees which would have been found back then as witness by some of the fossils I´ve seen, and it was dreadfully humid just like would imagine it would have been. It seemed to take forever to reach Gonzar where there was a washroom. I was in desperate need after having drunk almost a litre of water. It was a great relief to finally get a health break. That was when I had my second cappucino of the day and it helped me to keep going.
We got back on the road again and passed the hamlet of Castromaior. As we turned the corner we saw it: another 60 degree hill (only this one was paved). Carleana and I looked at each other and said to her that I was going to take 15 steps with my walking stick and drink some water, then I would start again. So I started off counting in Spanish, then in Italian, then in French, then in English, then in Italian and in Spanish. By that time I got to the top I stopped and took a good long drink and gathered my wits before moving on. Seriously, I´m not going to break any land speed records for completing the different stages of this Camino but I will finish each and every stage.
At the next little hamlet, Carleana asked if we were there and it broke my heart to tell her that we still had a little over 2 kms to go. She has been struggling with blisters caused by her shoes and has rarely complained, but today the pain was more than she could bare. I honestly don´t know how she managed to complete this stage of the Camino. I mean I was always bringing up the rear and she just kept on going. At some point during the day, she asked if I could go with her to by a pair of walking sandals, of course I agreed. This was not completely altruistic as I needed to find a long sleeved t-shirt to wear in the mornings since my yellow sweater was way too hot.
Finally we reached Ventas de Naron. We made in a little over 4 hours and we had walked from our hotel door to Ventas de Naron a total of 13.875 kms. I have to say it was not the most pleasant of walks today because there was very little to see. There were a number of spots along the way that were breathtaking and worth every step that I took. The only other thing that kept me going was my British playlist. Thank you Elton, Def Lepperd, Eric, Billy and all the rest.
Once we got to Ventas de Naron I pulled out the card with the taxis phone number, there were two numbers, so I tried the first and got no joy. Then I tried the second and the person who answered said that she had no taxis available. So I told Carleana and she reminded me that she had taken a picture of some of the taxis parked in the plaza at Portomarin which showed a telephone number. So I called the number and stumbled through getting us a taxi in Spanish. At first the woman who answered wasn't going to send one because there was already a taxi in Ventas de Naron. I had already inquired about hiring that one but the girl in the cafe told me that the driver was not available. So I did my best to explain this to the woman on the phone. She finally agreed to send me a taxi but she wanted to get the name of the cafe (this took a few minutes because I couldn´t figure what the cafe's name was, eventually I got it).
When the taxi driver arrived, we got in the taxi. He suggested that someone might want to sit in the front but we said that was okay. It was okay until I realized that this was a big tall guy and the room in the back seat behind him was not that much. Note to self: two people in a European taxi--one in the back and one in the front. The saddest part was that the drive back to Portomarin was only about 15 minutes!
So we took a few minutes to regroup in the hotel, and then went in search of Carleana´s shoes and my t-shirt. We were successful with both and then went back to the hotel for some lunch. Carleana had a cheese sandwich and I had a pizza with ham, mushrooms and cheese on a thin crust. Yes pizza two days in a row!!!!!!
After lunch we went for a dip in the pool--it was freezing when we first got in but it was refreshing after swimming a couple (two) laps. We sat in the lounge chairs for a few minutes to dry off. Once we got a little dry and before we could fall asleep and become lobsters we headed back to our room. We got changed and headed off to the lounge where Carleana wrote her blog and I wrote my journal and worked on today´s zentangle.!! I slipped out and had another cappuccino (my third of the day but there are so good and only 1.5 euros!!!!!)
Before dinner we went for a short walk to the plaza and then had dinner at the hotel. After dinner we got organized for tomorrow´s adventure and our next hotel. On the plus side today our room was a lot cooler tonight so I´m sure that we will both sleep better. A big kiss to each of my boys and I love you all lots.
Travel day July 13 - 14
So today was the big day. It started out like any other day with my usual running around. Then I picked Cameron up early and we had lunch as a family. I had packed in the morning for the last time and just needed to check a few last minute details.
Dave and Carleana arrived on time and we left on time. The ride to Toronto was uneventful until we hit Kitchener when it started to pour like crazy and flashes of lightning but it was done before we hit Milton where we stopped for coffee and a snack. When we arrived at the airport it didn´t take long for us to find the Air Canada line to get our bags checked. I had been in a panic about the bag being over weight. But I made it with 10 pounds to spare.
Then the boys walked us over to security and we said our goodbyes. It was now about 6:30 and we grabbed something to eat and waited for the boarding call. They announced the flight and we boarded. Both Carleana and I noticed that it was rather warm on the airplane and that the seats were squishy (especially when the person in front of you spends the whole flight with her seat back and you have barely room to breathe). BTo top it all off I couldn´t get comfortable and that meant that I didn´t sleep-I knew that it might be an issue because I never sleep well on planes.
We finally arrived in Madrid and the signage was abysmal. It was very difficult to figure out ehere we needed to go especially when we couldn´t find a monitor with our flight information. Then we took out our tickets and realized that we needed to go to a different terminal. We managed to get directions for the bus shuttle and made our way upstairs and outside. Meanwhile I was fretting about whether or not our luggage would make it to Santiago (this was all taking place inside my head). Then we had to go through immigration and when the agent saw that my place of birth was Lima, Peru he refused to let me speak in English and I had my first crack at speaking in Spanish. Bottom line I made myself understood, and the immigration agent was actually rather nice.
Then we headed for the bus transfer and took the 15 minute ride to the Iberia terminal. Carleana´s first experience with Spanish driving (it has no resemblance at all to how we drive). We got to the terminal and looked around--the line ups were huge and we thought we´d better get into one or we´d never get to Santiago. Then I noticed that there were other Iberia lineups that weren´t too bad (by that time I was starting to get tired and hungry, never a good combination for me) so we got into one and got checked in for the flight to Santiago de Compostela.
We grabbed a bite, waited forever, played some cards and luckily heard an announcement to check for the gate your flight left from because they did not make boarding calls. So we wandered around until we found our gate and waited. The airplane was much roomier and more comfortable and I actually managed to catnap most of the way. Then we land in Santiago and make our way to the baggage claim--where my worst nightmare comes true and I can´t find my luggage. One of the airport staff asks where we came from and tells us that we need to go to the international baggage claim and then through customs. So off we go and find our luggage (boy was I relieved!!!!!!!!!). Then we find our driver and we are off.
Dave and Carleana arrived on time and we left on time. The ride to Toronto was uneventful until we hit Kitchener when it started to pour like crazy and flashes of lightning but it was done before we hit Milton where we stopped for coffee and a snack. When we arrived at the airport it didn´t take long for us to find the Air Canada line to get our bags checked. I had been in a panic about the bag being over weight. But I made it with 10 pounds to spare.
Then the boys walked us over to security and we said our goodbyes. It was now about 6:30 and we grabbed something to eat and waited for the boarding call. They announced the flight and we boarded. Both Carleana and I noticed that it was rather warm on the airplane and that the seats were squishy (especially when the person in front of you spends the whole flight with her seat back and you have barely room to breathe). BTo top it all off I couldn´t get comfortable and that meant that I didn´t sleep-I knew that it might be an issue because I never sleep well on planes.
We finally arrived in Madrid and the signage was abysmal. It was very difficult to figure out ehere we needed to go especially when we couldn´t find a monitor with our flight information. Then we took out our tickets and realized that we needed to go to a different terminal. We managed to get directions for the bus shuttle and made our way upstairs and outside. Meanwhile I was fretting about whether or not our luggage would make it to Santiago (this was all taking place inside my head). Then we had to go through immigration and when the agent saw that my place of birth was Lima, Peru he refused to let me speak in English and I had my first crack at speaking in Spanish. Bottom line I made myself understood, and the immigration agent was actually rather nice.
Then we headed for the bus transfer and took the 15 minute ride to the Iberia terminal. Carleana´s first experience with Spanish driving (it has no resemblance at all to how we drive). We got to the terminal and looked around--the line ups were huge and we thought we´d better get into one or we´d never get to Santiago. Then I noticed that there were other Iberia lineups that weren´t too bad (by that time I was starting to get tired and hungry, never a good combination for me) so we got into one and got checked in for the flight to Santiago de Compostela.
We grabbed a bite, waited forever, played some cards and luckily heard an announcement to check for the gate your flight left from because they did not make boarding calls. So we wandered around until we found our gate and waited. The airplane was much roomier and more comfortable and I actually managed to catnap most of the way. Then we land in Santiago and make our way to the baggage claim--where my worst nightmare comes true and I can´t find my luggage. One of the airport staff asks where we came from and tells us that we need to go to the international baggage claim and then through customs. So off we go and find our luggage (boy was I relieved!!!!!!!!!). Then we find our driver and we are off.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)