Please be aware that I am writing this on my iPhone and any spelling errors are as a result of the the platform being used not necessarily of the operator.
7:30 am I was up with the first massive migraine of the trip--it was one of those that required medication, alka seltzer and an ice pack (in this case a cold compress). Then I opened the windows to let in more cool air and fell back asleep. My alarm woke me up at 9 am (did I mention I learned how to use my iPhone as an alarm clock- what a wonderful gift my husband gave me).
We got ourselves ready, went down to breakfast and then off to church for what we hoped was the pilgrim's mass. We got there at about 10:30 and there was a line up already to the top step of the cathedral. There was already a mass going in and we waited because the police were only allowing people in as people left. It was already blazing hot. We waited in line for 2 hours before we were allowed in, fortunately we did have some distractions.
First, in the line behind us was a group of women who had met on the Camino and two of the women had taken a vow of silence for the last stage if the Camino and until the left the church. They were all very nice and we chatted on and off while we waited. As we waited, they used the massive incense burner and I hit a bit of video of them swinging it back and forth. It was truly amazing to watch. The history behind this is that when pilgrims arrived they usually hadn't bathed for the whole of the pilgrimage so it was rather ripe, they made the butafico (giant incense burner) to deal with the odors.
Then just before we went in, I said something like I wish I was taller so that I could see and the guy in front if me moved and started taking in English. Turns out that he and his wife were from Wales and his wife had completed the Portuguese Camino being 7 months pregnant.
We got in for the mass and it was hot. We did manage to find a seat and for that I was extremely grateful. I was having problems following the mass because it was in Spanish and I haven't been to mass in a really long time. I was also very hot and my legs and feet were throbbing from my flip flops. We left our seats shortly before the Eucharist and wandered around taking pictures of the inside if the church.
We headed back to our hotel at around 2:30 and stopped at the trattoria for lunch. We split an order of garlic bread with cheese and I had the ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach. It was very good, however, the wine I had was a bit on the sweet side and I didn't enjoy it. I finished with a really good cappuccino.
We went back to the hotel to drop off some things and then walked down to the train station. It is literally a 2 minute walk. We got the train tickets for the 28th--first class. Then we walked back to the hotel trying to figure out whether or not to walk our suitcases over or take a taxi--here's the problem: there is no ramp for us to walk down and there are about 40 steps from the street to the train station furthermore we didn't see any other option?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
From there we went to the bus station by taxi because it was on the other side if town and it was extremely hot. We get there and they don't sell tickets until the day of so we wasted taxi fare for nothing. We head back to the room because all the walking has finally caught up with me.
I spend the afternoon blogging, texting, and working in my zentangles. Later in the afternoon it starts thundering and lightning and then for about a hour it rains and things cool down considerably. I'm still full from lunch and have a couple of granola bars for dinner. Then I pack up for Fisterra and turn in early since we were going to get to the bus station early.
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